I was sitting on a bar stool completely engrossed in lively conversation when the unexpected happened. One minute I was learning local slang words and the next, I looked up and – muddasick -there was a taut young butt gyrating wirh rhythmic speed in front of me.
Pool Bar
I hadn’t seen it coming. With soca monarch winner Machel Montano’s music thumping loudly through the speakers, I certainly hadn’t heard it coming. Yet there it was, a mere touch away.
I resisted the crazy impulse to slap it. And the clichéd move of reaching into my wallet for a dollar bill to toss it.
Honestly, my restraint was due mostly to propriety; not modesty. I was among business colleagues and the butt in question belonged to someone I had met while island-hopping that day. The young man was a fireball of positive and uninhibited energy so when he invited my group to the resort’s popular Tuesday night karaoke party, we agreed to go.
Watch the clip below to get a glimpse of the behind the bar action.
The night was ton loads of fun but admittedly, I got much more than I bargained for.
First, there was that attention-grabbing, ‘Oh no, is this reallyhappening to me right now?’ lap dance. And second, I was cleverly cajoled into playing lead ‘vocalist’ in a hastily arranged trio meant to rescue the Michael Jackson’s 1982 song Pretty Young Thing from total butchering at the hands of well-intentioned teens. More YouTube and Vine than MTV generation, they weren’t even born when that Billboard hit ruled the charts.
Don’t get me wrong though, I am not complaining.
island hopping in The Abacos
I deliberately shared that story to say this: that impromptu, light-hearted and double-over-with-uncontrollable-laughter scenario summed up the essence of what I came to know as ‘The Abaco Life’. You can’t read about it or simply hear about it. It is something you must experience.
The fabric that holds #TheAbacoLife together is a beautiful tapestry of unscripted moments, uncomplicated and fun-loving interactions, and the quintessential less-is-more philosophy that ultimately leads to true quality of life.
I’m serious. The Out Island spirit is delightfully infectious. It will make you smile inside and out.
One of my most lasting memories of time spent in Cayman is witnessing their revered Easter camping tradition. From Holy Thursday to Easter Monday, the beaches are transformed into active campsites where families spend their days and nights fishing and chilling, and eating and grilling. Friends often drop by to share a meal, play cards or join a spirited game of dominoes. After a few hours, the passersby move to another spot for more of the same. Everybody – native and tourist alike – is welcome. I’ve never seen anything like it anywhere else. It is such a refreshingly authentic destination experience!
Camps on the beach in the district of East End
If I had to sum up the event in one sentence, I’d say the four-day holiday is defined by good food, good friends and good fellowship. Kids frolic in the water while adults catch up on news from the marl road (i.e. gossip mill). Even grandpas and grandmas get in on this fun in the sun.
Group playing dominoes while others chill at Smith Cove beach ( close to George Town)Kids having fun at Smith Cove
What’s also interesting is that these camps become more sophisticated each year. In some instances, we are talking generators, solar water heaters and gas operated barbeque grills. Plus blow-up air mattresses, hammocks and fancy flat-screens.
Lunch is served! [L-R: Bean Stew, White Rice, Curried Chicken, Potato Salad]A quick look at the check-out lines at local hardware stores like A.L. Thompson and Cox Lumber demonstrate the purchasing power of the avid Easter camper.
Below are a few more scenes from this cultural phenomenon. Check it out in person one year if you can!
Base camp gathering.Multi-generational chillaxing
Editor’s Notes:
The most popular camping spots in Grand Cayman are at Cayman Kai, East End, Smith Cove and Public Beach. If you want to partake in the fun click here.for more information on the process and guidelines.
Other cultural and heritage-based activities must-sees outside of Easter include:
a visit to Pedro St James, a Great House that showcases the splendor of its 18th century heritage;
a walk through of Miss Lassie House, one of the most unique and traditional Caymanian homes;
or, a visit during the second week of November to participate in the country’s annual Pirates Week festival that features heritage days in each of its main districts in addition to street parties and the reenactment of a pirate ship landing.
Other than the gaudy floral shirt, straw hat, ankle socks and sandals combination that so many people visiting the Caribbean seem to love, nothing screams TOURIST to us Jamaicans quite like the museum-worthy phrase – irie mon.
Are you guilty of either transgression? Here’s a friendly tip: It is way past the time to drop those two little words from your lingo. And please, go donate the Hawaii Five-O wardrobe castoffs to your closest charity right now!
So as not to leave you hanging, I’ve compiled a few phrases to help you ‘kick it’ with us locals, and impress the people you meet on your next trip. In each instance, I’ve also added Instagram posts from popular Jamaicans to help you get a better understanding of local context.
1. What a gwaan? OR How yuh stay?
Pronunciation: For what a gwaan – as it reads. For the second, use a short ‘u’ sound.
Meaning: How are you? What’s happening?
Context: Use in conversation as a general greeting with someone who would be your peer.
Usain Bolt, World’s fastest man
2. Parri OR bredrin
Pronunciation: Paa-ri and Bread-drin
Meaning: A buddy; friend. Parri Is gender neutral while bredrin is specifically used to refer to men. The female equivalent is sistren.
Context: You can show your street savvy by referring to your friends (old or new) and travel companions this way. Please note that if you’re speaking to Jamaicans under 30, it’s best to use parri. If you are engaging with persons older than that, bredrin or sistren is more common.
Kaci Fennel: Miss Jamaica Universe 2015.
3. Shampoo and condition OR looking sharp
Pronunciation: As it reads
Meaning: Well-dressed, nicely styled, looking good
Context: Out at a local bar or beach and feel like flirting? You can use it to compliment the object of your desires. (It’s likely that you will win a grin but don’t be surprised if the response to that might be, “yuh have lyrics, ennuh”, which loosely translated means “you are full of compliments but I am not sure they are genuine”.
Dutty Berry: Popular YouTube Vlogger
4. It sweet
Pronunciation: As it sounds
Meaning: This is really good
Context: This phrase can be used in many settings – to refer to the feel good vibe you get from a delicious meal, a good party, an outdoor concert, your favorite sports match etc. For additional emphasis. add “yuh fret”.
Lisa Hanna: Miss World 1993 and current Government Minister of Youth & Culture
5. Mek wi reason
Pronunciation: As it sounds
Meaning: Let’s talk; as in have a heart-to-heart discussion
Context: A sit-down chat with friends or a group of people. Typically, this conversation will take a little time; it is not a quick exchange. It also can be used in reference to a discussion with someone senior and more experienced. Use it as a conversation starter with your hotel staff. It should bring a smile to the face of your tour guide on a day-long excursion, or the watersports team whose job is to entertain you on a long boat trip.
Tessanne Chin: Winner of Season 5 of NBC’s – The Voice
6. Big up
Pronunciation: As it sounds
Meaning: An indication of praise
Context: This phrase can be used to show thanks to all the hotel staff that made your stay wonderful. Did the concierge give you great restaurant suggestions for dinner? Tell him, “big up my yute the food did sweet“. [My yute is equivalent to my compadre, my colleague etc.] Did your housekeeper have your room cleaned on time? Earn extra towels in your room the next day with a simple “Big up mi sistren”. You can add “nuff respect” for emphasis.
Finally, Big up yuself (yourself) for completing your first Jamaican slang tutorial! Nuh seh nutten mi sistren or bredrin. (i.e. All is well)
Christopher Martin – singer
Note: Jamaican slang changes frequently, as it is heavily influenced by our dancehall culture. So my Jamaican peeps, I know that this compilation is only the tip of the iceberg. Tell me, what are some of the good ones that I missed?
Ever since the 1961 US embargo, Cuba has held a hint of mystique for the Western traveler. Call me silly but I always likened its allure to the attraction that a girl next door feels for the brooding and mysterious “bad boy” who drives her a little lust crazy.
All my female readers past puberty will understand the magnetism of which I speak. You know that slightly cocky, risk-taking, cigar smoking and motorcycle riding James Dean lookalike who, at some point in our lives, was maddeningly close yet still out of reach.
Boy meets girl
Then finally, one day the unexpected happens. You meet him and the two of you get to spend a little time together. And reality trumps perception. In fact, it turns all your preconceived notions upside down.
That is how I felt when I visited Havana. Next to the sense of stepping into a 1950s time machine, the second biggest impression I got was how devoid it was of swagger. By the end of my stay, I realized it was truly one of the most unpretentious and authentic destinations that I had ever been to.
While walking through the streets I saw families sitting at their dining tables talking and eating with doors wide open. On a bus tour, I passed kids who probably never heard of PlayStations and tablets playing contentedly with very rudimentary hand-made toys. Plus, some women even walked to the store with their hair still in rollers. There were no touristy costumes or hustles.
Boys at play
The very lack of pretense displayed also highlighted the country’s resilience. Architecturally stunning buildings that told of former glory days stood majestically tall despite being in dire need of paint and restoration.
Locals drove brightly painted Oldsmobile Rockets, Chevrolet Bel Airs and other classic American cars that were buffed to perfection and ran like well-oiled machines. The condition of those vehicles served as further evidence of the resourcefulness and skill level of Cuban electricians and tradesmen. They had to adapt engines and keep up with repairs without access to factory-made spare parts.
Classic Car
So if I were to sum up my 36 hour Cuban experience in one word, it would be “real”. Real people, real stories, real struggles, real need, real strength in the face of adversity, real beauty, and abundant warmth and hospitality.
If you go for a short visit, here are five suggestions for things to do.
1. Take a leisurely walk through the old town
Like Venice, Old Havana is a walking city. Our cab driver couldn’t take us all the way to the hotel front door because of the narrow streets and pedestrian only zones, so we had to pull our carry-ons part of the way.
Street in Old Havana
Built in the early 1500s, this part of the town showcases buildings from the colonial era. Many border either the Plaza Viaja, the Plaza de la Catedral or the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis. (Click here to see panoramic view of the Plaza Viaja) The level of detail on the buildings is incredible and they form the perfect backdrop for memorable photographs. When you get tired, you can stop to have coffee or grab a meal in any of the local eateries along the cobblestone-lined streets.
If you are free, return in the evening to enjoy some of the Cuban nightlife. Beautiful melodies are always in the air!
2. Stock up on local music and art
If you enjoy listening to Latin jazz, salsa and mambo, or collecting inexpensive originals from local artisans around the world, you can’t leave Cuba without stocking up on some of its distinctive music and art.
Street vendor
Ask your hotel concierge for the location of the nearest street market where you can buy compact discs, oil paintings, watercolors, wood carvings, basket work and hand-made jewelry. Warning: be prepared to negotiate for that extra special item.
3. Visit the Museum of the Revolution
If you are interested in Cuban history, a visit to the Museum of the Revolution is a must. Located on Calle Refugio 1, this museum’s artifacts are housed in the former Presidential Palace once used by ousted leader Fulgencio Batista.
Museum of the Revolution
The displays are on different levels, ranging from the country’s pre-Colombian culture to its current communist regime. Many exhibits pay homage to the Cuban Revolution and the War of Independence that the country waged with Spain. Fidel Castro, Camilo Cienfuegos and Ernesto “Che” Guevara are all prominently featured, and you will see everything from blood stained military uniforms to downright silly and satirical commentary on former US presidents.
Statue depictiing scenes from the Revolution
Across the street, you also can find open air exhibits such as tanks and vehicles, a part of an alleged American spy plane, and the yacht Fidel and Che sailed on from Mexico. Go at the right time, and you might catch the changing of the guards.
4. Book a day trip to the Viñales Valley
About a 3-hour drive out of Havana, a ride through the hills and into the Viñales Valley offers you a breathtaking view of one of the most popular areas for tobacco production and farming.
View from Look Out Point
On the way there, you can stop and have lunch at the Mural de La Historia, a 120m-long painting on the side of Mogote Dos Hermanos.
I was told that Cuban painter Leovigildo González Morillo designed the mural in 1961 and it was painted by local farmers. The dinosaurs, sea monsters, snail and humans in the painting symbolize the theory of evolution.
Naughty girl! lol
On my trip, I also visited a rum factory, a small limestone cave called Cuevo del indio, and we stopped at La Casa del Veguero. The latter is a restaurant with a secadero (traditional tobacco drying house) and a live demonstration of how to hand roll Cuban cigars. (Click here for video)
5. Sip afternoon cocktails on the lawns of the Hotel Nacional
No trip to Havana is complete without a visit to the Hotel Nacional, one of the oldest properties in Cuba. Reportedly, it was the host hotel for a notorious mob summit – The Havana Conference of 1946 –attended by leaders of the United States and Sicilian Mafia who converged on the island to discuss transnational mob policies, rules, and other notable “business interests”. It is likely that the resolutions and agreements made in that pivotal meeting were implemented and observed by crime families for many decades.
The hotel’s lawns overlook the waterfront area and you get a peaceful and relaxing view of the locals’ evening activity. If you wish, you also can check their event listing and go to see their lively cabaret show.
_
Now that Cuba’s doors are more open to US travel – albeit within specified categories – I expect a rush to the border. So book early! If you plan to participate in athletic, cultural, religious, educational or humanitarian activities, it should be easy to get a license to travel.
Editor’s Notes:
1. Take Canadian or European currencies as foreign exchange transactions involving the US dollar attract a surcharge. (Aug 2015 update: Due to the devaluation of the Canadian currency, I’ve heard that it is not being as widely accepted as before)
2. I saw far more billboards and iconography of Che than I did of Fidel Castro. Given that he was an Argentine transplant and second-in-command, I was completely taken aback by the degree of his popularity.
3. Order a pork dish somewhere… especially one prepared for the non-tourist palate. The “cerdo” I had in the countryside was one of the best tasting meals ever.
Did you see the 1991 suspense thriller, The Silence of the Lambs? If so, do you remember when Clarice Starling answered the phone during her FBI Academy graduation party? Be honest, were you as spooked as I was to find out that it was Dr. Hannibal Lecter on the line?
“Hello Clarice”, he said. [Insert heart-racing pause here. Now go gravelly soft with the cultured, yet diabolical, voice impersonation]
“Have the lambs stopped screaming?”
OMG! Even now, I am getting goose bumps simply thinking about it. I remember almost jumping out of my seat in the cinema.
That iconic scene was filmed in Bimini, one of the more than 700 islands, cays and islets that make up The Bahamas. The island is seven miles (11 km) long and 700 feet (210 m) at its widest point.
I spent some time there recently; about five hours to be exact.
Because of its proximity to Florida, Bimini is an easy day trip from Fort Lauderdale or Miami. If you own a boat, or occasionally charter one to go big-game fishing, you can make the 53 mile (85km) trip on your own. I took the commercial route – the Bimini SuperFast. The ship left Port Everglades at 9 a.m., and we disembarked to the sounds of sweet and rhythmic island music by noon.
The day trip package included free tram service to the Resorts World Paradise Beach or Casino where individuals and families could redeem vouchers for scuba diving adventures, snorkeling, or kayak tours. Persons also had the option of getting discounts on several water sports activities. If you love water skis, water bikes, jet skis, banana boats, glass bottom boats or parasailing are your thing; you’ll be in haven. I prefer land-based activities, so I chose to explore historic Alice Town. Round-trip transportation was included for that option as well.
Our first stop was at Stuart’s Conch Salad Stand, where my fellow passengers got to sample a dish I’d been introduced to during my university years in Nassau. In this Bahamian specialty, the conch is taken fresh from its shell, cleaned and cut into small pieces. Diced hot peppers, onions, and juicy tomatoes are added, and then lemon juice is poured over the mixture to cure the uncooked meat, like in a ceviche. After that, salt is added to taste. It’s a spicy dish that can take some time to get used to. However, I was pleasantly surprised that all the conch salad first-timers loved it!
Fresh conch being prepared at Stuart’s Conch Salad Stand
I enjoyed a few of my favorite dishes over lunch at the popular local eatery, Big John’s Bar & Grill. It is an open air restaurant with a cool, laid back vibe. I hadn’t had authentic Bahamian food in years so the first bite into my conch fritters triggered savory memories of long-forgotten Friday jaunts with college friends. Back then, a small group of us regularly passed the day leisurely in the many shops and restaurants along Bay Street.
But that was only the beginning. When the rich flavor of the conch chowder hit my palate, I found myself reminiscing even more. And the pièce de résistance of any Bahamian meal? In my book, that honor goes to a delectable dessert known as guava duff. My serving didn’t just invoke recollections; it summoned pleasure-infusing genies from the nethermost regions of my mind.
Bimini Gas Station
After lunch, I gawked at the island’s only petrol station, which was essentially two pumps on the side of the road. I also checked out one stretch of beach; and dodged happy-go-lucky golf cart drivers that careened noisily through the narrow street.
I skipped a full walk through of the craft market as a cursory glance didn’t reveal any unique items on display. But I braved the overgrown grass and rickety steps to enter the second floor museum across the street. It housed interesting tidbits and artifacts that provided colorful context for the island.
The Bimini Museum
Inside those dusty and dilapidating walls, I learnt of Ernest Hemingway’s Bimini fishing expeditions. I also saw the immigration card that Martin Luther King Jnr. had signed when he visited the island in November 1964. The captions said that he composed his Nobel Peace Prize acceptance speech while staying there.
Snippets of life surrounding Adam Clayton Powell Jnr, the outspoken, flamboyant and charismatic US Congressman who generally was considered to be the grandfather of the civil rights movement, were also on display. He spent most of his 1967 term in Bimini – not New York – amidst much controversy surrounding his alleged misuse of payroll and travel expenses. Powell’s second wife, was jazz and classical pianist and singer, Hazel Scott. Interestingly, she was born in Port of Spain, Trinidad and moved to the United States at the age of four.
School boys in uniform
If local folklore is to be believed, Bimini’s most significant historic tie to today’s generation possibly lies in the origin of the phrase, ‘the real McCoy’. It is said that the island was a popular whiskey supply source during the Prohibition period, and while many rum-runners were forced to ‘water down’ their product, the Bimini–based William S. McCoy could be counted on to export the full-bodied brew to America. As a result, the term ‘the real McCoy’ was born. It is now used in many different contexts.
I rarely drink, and even when I do, rum and whiskey are not at the top of my list. But I checked, and there are local shops where you can sample Bahamian liquor to test its true potency. Cheers to that!
For the last hour or so, my Mom and I puttered around town. We also jumped on the tram and headed back to see the Resorts World hotel, which is still under construction. It will be gorgeous when it’s completed.
A section of the Bimini Resorts World Hotel
I’ll end by saying that Bimini is TINY, so outside of water sports, fishing, and the casino, there is not much to do. It is nothing like Nassau, or even Grand Bahama. But it has its unique personality and flair, so be thorough in your research to find things to do while there.
Now, I do wish we could chat longer but I have to go. I am meeting a good friend for dinner…
___
Editor’s Notes:
The Bahamas is special to me. I suppose it is because I spent two of the most carefree years of my life in Nassau, and made many lifelong friends. In addition to Nassua and Bimini, I’ve also been to Freeport (Grand Bahama), Andros, Eleuthera and Blue Lagoon. The currency exchange to the US dollar is 1:1, so bear in mind that your spending clout won’t extend as far as it might in other Caribbean Islands.
While there, be sure to try their signature drink, the Bahama Mama. It’s a blend of pineapple and coconut juice, and a touch of coffee with two types of rum. Be mindful of where and who you ask for it though because the phrase ‘Bahama Mama’ is also local lingo for a curvaceous and well-endowed woman.
One last comment. I visited Bimini in October 2014 and the condition of the museum and the pubic library below it, saddened me. Alice Town is being touted as a historic place but not enough care is going into the maintenance and upkeep of its buildings and artifacts. I hope that either the Bahamas Tourist Board, the new hotel, or private residents will take that museum on as a project. History needs to be preserved!
Trinidad and Tobago is a twin island republic just off the northern coast of Venezuela. But its place in this world cannot be limited to geographic coordinates or size. Rather, its impact lies in the warmth and vitality of its people, its diverse culture, its soca music, and its oil.
Here is a brief look into the aesthetic beauty of these islands through the lens of talented photographer, Phil Sykes.
Clapboard viewsRelaxtion inlet
‘Peer’ flex
Paradise beckonsBalanceMan, woman, dogMulticultural rootsJourney’s end
BEHIND THE LENS: A brief chat with the photographer.
Phil Sykes
Phil, tell me about your love of photography. Would you describe it as a hobby, or a passion?
It’s both a hobby and a release. I have a high-stress job with demanding responsibilities and photography helps to relax me because it frees my mind. It’s the only thing in my life that is totally unstructured and therefore it allows me to be creative.
With my camera, all I ever have to think about is ‘f stops’ and shutter speeds. (An ‘f stop’ is a quantitative measure of the size of the lens opening)
I’ve heard you say you feel naked without a camera. Is that really true?
Yes it is. I’m naturally an introvert but my camera allows me to be a part of an event and still remain an observer. Sometimes my equipment even acts as a conversation starter. Wherever I am, I look at the environment around me as a potential photo opportunity. I am constantly assessing light, shape, patterns and compositions so when I see something awesome and I don’t have my camera with me, I get MAD.
How does your smartphone factor in, if at all?
Because I always have my iPhone on me, it has become the quick fix solution to that feeling of nakedness that I described. Thankfully, with a few quality apps, you now can take pictures that come close enough to a shot from a Digital Single-lens Reflex (DSLR) camera.
You’ve mentioned that you’ve started experimenting with different special effects apps. What is your favourite, and why?
My current favourite ‘gimmick’ is a processing technique called High Dynamic Range (HDR). It allows me to manipulate a picture in a way that better mimics what the eye actually sees. The eye is much more powerful than a camera lens as it instinctively adjusts to large variances in shadow and bright light, and then processes that data.
HDR is a method of combining a number of shots of the same scene, each taken with a slightly different exposure setting. The end result is a photo that balances shadow and light in a more natural way, which ultimately brings out an amazing level of detail.
The technique is frowned upon by some in the industry because they claim it relies too much on technology thus taking away from the skill of the photographer. I disagree. I believe that HDR complements and enhances the photographer’s skill. It has its place as one among many photography techniques.
What subjects do you enjoy shooting most?
I have two preferred subjects; family and friends in a controlled studio type environment, and travel and landscape photography. Both are very different and require separate skills.
I know you’re British and that you travel extensively. But you’ve been to this destination several times. Do you feel a special connection to Trinidad and Tobago?
The country has a special place in my heart not just because my wife is Trinidadian and my daughter was born there. Both islands have stunning landscapes and spectacular natural light. From beaches to mountains, rainforest to coconut tree plantation, and inner city life to Hindu Temples in the sea – there is so much to see and shoot!
Living in Dubai, I am used to very flat, dull light that is super bright. And there’s usually no clouds in the sky. Very often the visibility is also very poor. When I go home to Trinidad I can’t help but notice the clouds and the skies, the light, the very changeable weather, the cleanliness of the air and perfect visibility. Those elements create so many more opportunities for eye-catching photography.
You strike me as a gadgets man. So if your family and friends are reading this post, tell them what’s on your photography wish list for Christmas.
I do like me a good gadget, and photography has an awful lot to choose from. Honestly though, I’ve tried quite a few and then left them alone. I am a bit of a minimalist now. Check my gear bag and you will see that it is not that heavy. Two or three good lenses is all I really need.
The one thing I do need more of, is time. Time to practice and time to enjoy my hobby. Also, as photography is an ongoing learning experience I would welcome a gift of enrolment in one of the many specialist courses that are available. I am no expert, and my quest for knowledge is real. Anything that would allow me to continue to grow and get better at my craft would be appreciated.
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To look at his portfolio, you can visit his website at http://philipsykes.com. Or, to purchase high resolution versions of his Trinidad & Tobago images, and many others, you can email him directly at [email protected]. (He has so many stunning photos, it was HARD to select only eight)
