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Street food is Cartagena’s best kept secret

I can’t wait to tell you about the day I ate my way through the streets of Cartagena! But first, please give me a minute to stroke my tummy while I reminisce about the explosion of flavors I experienced during that palate-friendly walking tour.

Yum, yum. BURP.

Busy stuffing my hands and face with street goodies. See all those dressings on the side?
Busy stuffing my hands and face with street goodies. See all those dressings on the side?

Even after I booked the excursion, I couldn’t explain what had come over me. I have a very delicate stomach that doesn’t hesitate to let me know when I’ve ingested something that doesn’t go down well. So naturually, I tend to be careful about my food choices when I’m away from home. But all that caution – born of sometimes painful and/or embarrassing repercussions – flew out the window when I visited the vibrant seaport town that dots Colombia’s northern coast.  Cartagena’s fusion of Latin, Caribbean and African cuisines were inspiration enough to defy my fears and make me dive tongue first into the unknown.

The first order of business was taking my probiotic tablet. I gotta keep it teal. My digestive system needs those good bacteria to keep it working like it should!
The first order of business was taking my probiotic tablet. I gotta keep it real. My digestive system needs those small bursts of good bacteria to keep it working like it should!

There was a variety of food carts, trucks and stands scattered throughout the colorful streets of the Walled City and neighboring towns like Getsemani. At almost every corner, vendors sold a wide range of foods that ranged from deep-fried starches to fresh fruit while the locals ignored us tourists and carried on with everyday life.

A domino game in play in Getsemani.
A domino game in play in Getsemani.

And one of the best parts of the experience was the fact that I could relish the delicacies while learning about local culture and folklore.  As far as ambiance goes, eating mango biche while walking past refurbished, colonial-style mansions and admiring multi-hued looms springing from second-floor balcony gardens, wasn’t too bad either.

I started the tour at the Statue of Jose Fernandez by the Plaza Fernandez de Madrid. It was across from The Cocoa and Chocolate Museum.  I just had to pop inside for a little visit before the other members of the group arrived. Cocoa plant

Arepas – These are flatbreads made of white or yellow corn and stuffed with cheese and butter.

Two types of arepas brought to you courtesy pf the local street vendors
Two types of arepas brought to you courtesy of the local street vendors

arepas in the street

Patacones  – As an island girl, I grew up eating friend green plantains accompanied by different proteins for breakfast or supper, but the Colombian version had a different twist to it. They were soaked in a salty, garlic-flavored marinade first, fried to a crispy texture and devoured as the main meal.

See that liquid in the pan to the front? It has the garlic and salt seasoned marinade in it.

Mango Biche – These are thin slices of unripe mango soaked in lime juice and seasonings, prettily displayed like extra-large fries in a cup. It had an unusual flavor; equal parts tarty and savory.

There were so many different fruits for sale all around Cartagena. And they were the fresh, not supermarket-weary variety.
There were so many different fruits for sale all around Cartagena. And they were the fresh, not supermarket-weary variety.

Empanada de huevo – Empanadas are made of corn and stuffed with beef and egg, with a sudeo ( white cream sauce) on top. We learnt these snacks are the scrumptious result of Latin, African, Syrian and Lebanese culinary influences. food container

Matrimonio – once upon a time, a sweet boy named ‘Guava’ met a full-bodied girl named ‘Cheese’ and it was love at first sight.  They hung out, got married, and lived happily ever after. guava and cheese

Chicharron – O.M.G. This pork dish is pure bliss. Crispy on the outside, and flavorful and tender on the inside, it hits the G-spot with every single bite. [Don’t gape at me. I meant G as in gastric!What were YOU thinking?]. I had it with boiled yuca, also known as cassava. Three servings still left me ravenous and yearning for more. Pork belly

pork

Café Mural – I ended the day at a small shop run by David, an engineer who decided to leave his lucrative job in Bogota to pursue his true passion – coffee. The table behind his bar counter looked like a mini science lab. It was stacked with test tubes, multiple-sized measuring cups and other equipment I couldn’t identify. inside cafe

But there was method to what appeared to be his crazy but lovable professor madness. David, whose grandfather owned a coffee farm, lives to experiment with new blends. I don’t drink coffee but the others in my tour group raved about the blends they tasted.  I had a long glass of a mellow chocolate drink that was a fitting end to my day. outside cafe

ARE YOU HUNGRY YET?

Editors notes:

In case you want to do something similar, I booked this tour with Cartagena Connections. Tours last between three to four hours and require a two person minimum. They depart at 2:30 p.m. daily. The cost was $30 when I did it.  With that price, you get to sample about eight items but you’re encouraged to take extra pesos and try anything else that catches your eye.

Chinese Street Food

There’s an old saying that says: “The Chinese eat everything with four legs, except tables, and everything that flies — except airplanes.” I rolled my eyes and chuckled when I heard it. But when I saw dishes like sautéed frog, sweet and sour snake head soup, donkey and braised croaker (lizard) listed on hotel and restaurant menus, the laughter dried up – quickly.

So take it from me. Be prepared to see and experience the gamut of food choices when you set off on a Chinese street food adventure. Some of it may make your stomach yearn for more. But the more exotic delicacies? Think churn…or quiver?

Chinese noodles
Chinese noodle stall

If you opt to buy breakfast on the street as many locals do, don’t expect anything as mundane as scrambled eggs or cereal. Most Chinese eat steamed or fried dumplings with various fillings in the morning, or something sweet like doughnuts or buns – usually accompanied with a drink of soy milk. Egg pancakes, rice porridge and noodle soup also are common. I was hesitant to try any meat varieties, so I sampled the vegetarian dumplings instead. They were scrumptious (and filling).

Xi'an Street Food
Meat skewers in Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter

For lunch and dinner, many roadside stalls display rows of skewered meats (kebabs), hand pulled noodles, and Chinese-style hamburgers that are shredded meat served between steamed bread. Other specialties include spare ribs, and simmering lamb or beef broth that you break chunky flat bread into. Several vegetarian meals are also available. You can lick your lips and linger; standing up, or sitting down.

Xi'an street food
Chinese flatbread

Xi’an is a great spot for street food. Once part of the famous ancient trading route of the Silk Road, it is now a modern city with craft/souvenir and retail shops,and interesting historical sites – the Terracotta Warriors being one of them. The Muslim Quarter, specifically the bustling Beiyuanmen Street, is famous for its food stalls.

For the faint-hearted epicureans like me, there’s also a nice Starbucks. I won’t lie to you. Its magnetic force was formidable. My warm ham and cheese panini sandwich, washed down with a steamy cup of hot chocolate, was just what I needed on a cold winter day.

Wangfujing Snack Street

If you’re heading to Beijing, you must visit Wangfujing Snack Street. Be warned; it’s noisy and crowded.  However, I was convinced that ‘the snacks’ were presented more for shock value than sustenance when I saw even some Asian visitors with mouths agape. It is must-see.

Your experience will depend on your spirit of adventure. All types of wriggling insects are displayed, just waiting to be cooked. Does hearing about centipedes, scorpions, spiders, bugs or sea horses get your gastric juices flowing? Well you’re in luck; chances are they’ll have it.

Insect varieties at Beijing Snack Street
Insect Varieties at Beijing Snack Street – Photo credit @ Stacy Wilkinson
Beijing Snack Street
Exotic options at Wangfujing Snack Street in Beijing – Photo credit @ Stacy Wilkinson)

Are those snacks too tame for you? Don’t worry, you can order exotic meat as well – as in dog, cat, sheep’s balls, or frog on a stick.[ Sidebar: I wish I could see your face right nowAre you salivating (or barfing) yet?]

All my queasy compradres, there’s hope for you too. Some vendors also sell plain foods like dumplings, squids, noodles, and fruits.

Beijing Snack Street
Meat varieties at Wangfujing Snack Street in Beijing

 I’ll end this post with one little word of wisdom. Whatever items you choose to try, please ensure that it is cooked before your eyes.

Beijing Snack Street
Desserts at Wangfujing Snack Street in Beijing (Photo credit@ Stacy Wilkinson)

 Bon Appétit!

___________

Editor’s Notes: For full disclosure, I must let you know that the hotel menus also had regular meal options. Admittedly, my culinary experience was not the best I have ever had but some people in my group had no issues, and  I do know two families that came back from their China trips raving about the food. I guess it depends on where you stay, what you like, and where you eat. I can vouch for the Peking Duck and the dumplings. They were awesome.