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Consistently ranked high by TripAdvisor users worldwide, Grace Bay Beach in Turks and Caicos is 12 miles of powder-soft sand and calming surf. It’s never crowded and the beach chairs are ample and comfy, plus the clarity of the water and cool Caribbean breezes are sure to take your breath away!
The fact that you can walk along the shoreline and stop to dine at many great beachfront restaurants is an added bonus.
This is what it looks like, even after a rainy night.
Today, high atop a fortified hill steeped in history and bordered by panoramic views, I had the pleasure of learning a little bit more about the origins of Calypso music in Trinidad and Tobago. Those of us who love to travel understand how customs, music and food can help define a culture. But no one appreciates how much those distinctions shape a country’s identity more so than a local.
Here is the abridged story of how calypso music – the energetic and signature beats of this dual island nation – originated. It is told by Andrew Welch, the managing director at Banwari Experience Limited, a destination management company that provides customized tours and other tourism services in Trinidad and Tobago.
Anybody else needs deep cleansing shampoo? Send me your order because I am heading to the pharmacy now. (smile)
I’m thankful I’ve been lucky enough to have ridden a camel in the Egyptian desert; toured castles and palaces in Europe and China; gone on safari in South Africa, had drinks in the 7-star Burj Al Arab in Dubai; watched a football (soccer) match in Brazil and more. BUT none of those experiences trump the feeling I get when I go home. Every single time I go back, I find something new to appreciate about my little land of wood and water.
That’s because, to me, there’s no other place on earth where…
The food, like home-cooked salt fish fritters and a cup of bush tea or hot milo is as delicious and as filling.
The road side stops with random vendor interactions are as entertaining. Or where the fruit stall purchases are as fresh and as satisfying.
The natural landscapes are so lush and breathtaking.
The wildlife is as colorful.
The history of the country is as relatable and as poignant
The early morning ocean sprays and the warm water are as refreshing and enticing.
And for all those reasons and more, I am proud to call that place HOME.
Yes parri, JAMAICA nice yuh know!
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Editor’s Notes:
In case you’ve wondered about it, the yellow in the Jamaican flag represents our sunshine and natural resources; the black, the burdens borne by the people; and the green stands for agriculture and hope for the future.
I already shared the story of finding the cutest Coconut Body Shop I’ve ever seen but today I’ll let you in on another secret. Remember this name, Orion Creations. If you like creative products, it is another locally-based shop that you absolutely must visit when you are in the Turks and Caicos.
A young lady who doesn’t look a day over 18 is the heart and soul of the operation. Her retail outlet launched in June 2015 and it sells hand-made greetings cards, paintings and jewelry that you won’t find anywhere else. The cards, her first business venture, paved the way for this gem of a shop that also sells clothing and work of other local designers, including dolls. But think outside the box here. Don’t expect to find any Barbies or Kens there.
The owner, Melissa Willcocks, is a multi-talented Canadian who moved to Providenciales in 2006. When she first arrived, she rented a room with her friend and began job hunting. Somewhere along the way, the roomies started planning for a grand tour of Europe but their landlord died and the house they were living in went on the market – at a great price. Instead of following their powerful wanderlust urges, they decided to use their vacation savings to buy the.
Melissa didn’t know it at the time but that was her first major business decision. After that, destiny called, and she answered. That very house became the base of her growing cottage industry. An avid scrap booker, she used the same concept to make her first greeting cards. Her friends and family liked them so much they encouraged her to try to sell them commercially.
She made contact with the purchasing team at Beaches, a large all-inclusive hotel on the island and was elated when they took 100 on commission. Soon, she expanded into painting and designing unique artwork that highlight the beautiful aspects of the islands. Sand is a signature element in many of her designs.
The rest, as they say, is history. Go visit her shop! It is near the Jamaican Patty Place in Le Petit Place; walking distance from Ocean Club West, which is where I stayed.
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You can visit her website or reach her at [email protected]
When I last visited the Bahamian Out Islands, I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Joe Albury, one of the oldest living descendants of the famous Albury boat building dynasty.
Joe is a soft-spoken man of medium height and build who moves with slow steps. At a glance, his weather-beaten skin tells a vivid story of a lifetime lived on the open seas and under the blazing Caribbean sun. However, don’t let his crown of silver hair and his slightly slurred speech fool you.
He is a testament to mental and physical strength. And his intimate knowledge of his craft is undeniable. I never asked him his age but Mr. Albury must be older than 80. Yet, this wizened seafarer makes boat making look easy – in a studio in his backyard!
His trademark design is called an ‘Abaco dinghy’ and a specially commissioned 13-footer built by Joe Albury will cost you somewhere in the region of US$18,000. As he works on his own and does it in his spare time, expect at least an 18 month wait if you place an order. His boats are very much in demand.
Can’t afford one or have no reason or desire to go sailing? Don’t despair. He sells hand-made 1/2″, 1″ and 1 1/2″ scale models in his store at much more affordable rates. What’s more, the miniatures are made from local woods such as madiera and corkwood so they serve as lasting and unique souvenirs.
Across the street, his relatives Don and Jamie run the more modern center-console and runabout boat production operation known as Albury Brothers Boats.
During my brief time with him, I learnt he had no heir or able apprentice waiting in line to carry on this venerable dinghy building tradition. I thought to myself, “how sad!’” It’s always disheartening to learn that long-held skills will not be passed on to future generations.
Some of my best shopping finds are uncovered in the places I least expect them to be. So imagine my delight when I stumbled across The Coconut Body Shop in Caicos Café Plaza in Providenciales, Turks and Caicos. It is across the street from Ocean Club West and this little store is undeniably a special place.
Run by a tall and lanky Belgian expat named Kristof, the store sells products made from virgin coconut oil and other aloe-based skin care lines that are chemical-free. Baby safe and reef safe*, these therapeutic essential blends and hair and body oils are good for multiple skin conditions, massages, diaper rashes and more.
And he makes them himself! I was so impressed, I asked him how.
Kristof said he picks the mature coconuts before they are ready to germinate (put out shoots), then he allows them to dry. The remaining water is collected and set aside before the meat is grated into shreds. The next step involves re-adding some of the water to the shredded meat and the combined mixture is placed in a cheesecloth that is then run through a manual wine press.
Depending on the humidity outdoors and other existing weather conditions, he allows the mixture to ferment anywhere between 24 to 48 hours before he begins his gravity-led filtration process that is repeated seven times.
I stood there slack-jawed as he patiently explained the process to me. My poor brain struggled to connect all the dots.
“Wait a minute. You told me you were an ocean transportation and shipping country manager in your former life, right?” I asked, slightly perplexed.
He smiled and nodded, indicating a modest yes.
“Okay, so please explain again how you learned to do this.” I persisted, not quite believing he had no prior experience. Because by all appearances, he had successfully managed to radically change careers in the seven years since he’d moved to the island.
“Through rigorous research and by a process of trial and error,” he good-naturedly responded.
Kristof produces the raw oil every two to three weeks and combines products daily. As a result, he splits his time between production and sales. So, do not be surprised if you don’t find him at the store after one o’clock in the afternoon.
The courteous expat also told me his wife was an aesthetician and she was able to help him gauge the caliber of the final product. They got it right! I’ve been using his Cold Press Virgin Coconut Oil for Hair and Body since I returned home and it is working wonders on my skin. I also love the fact that it has no overpowering fragrance and it absorbs quickly. If you’re ever there, try it. Your pores will love you!
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*Reef safe means that if you’ve used the products and go diving or snorkeling, they won’t cause bleaching of the reef as products with a chemical base would do.
December 2015 UPDATE: On a return trip to Provo in December, I found out that Kristof had to close his retail outlet but he still manufactures his product and sells it wholesale. You can visit their Facebook page to learn more: Click here.
What began as a small bag and purse-making operation in a modest seafarer’s home more than sixty years ago, is now ‘Albury’s Sail Shop’; a notable landmark and viable business on Man-O-War Cay. Travelers who enjoy visiting places with character or appreciate owning original products that are not mass produced need to add this shopping find to your things-to-do list, if they are ever in the Out Islands of the Bahamas.
Miss Annie, the warm and affable matriarch who runs the family-owned business, has an endearing “Come Home to Mama” personality that envelopes you as soon as you enter the store. A third-generation seamstress, she invokes feelings of happy gatherings around the dinner table and triggers an unexplainable desire to run around giving random bear hugs to every third or fourth person you meet.
Albury’s Sail shop uses sturdy canvas – material that is integral to the production of boat sails – to make colorful hats, bags and other products that are one-of-a kind. The shop’s extensive line is impressive in its own right but even more so given its history. Miss Annie’s ancestors started the cottage industry by making small draw-string bags from leftover scraps of canvas.
The best part is, the shop’s open floor plan allows you to stand inside, lean against a wall outside, or perch beneath a jalousie-style window and watch the production process unfold. I was pleasantly surprised that the items are all reasonably priced in spite of the labor-intensive process.
The machine Miss Annie uses was owned by her grandmother before her. Like a trusted horse that knows every foothold of a cliff because it has gone that way before, three antique but well-oiled and functional sewing machines lead the seamstresses through the ropes. The only difference was rather than the clicking sound generated by trotting hoofs, the room was filled with staccato bursts akin to whirring hums.
I encourage you to stand still for a few minutes and watch the ladies work. Then I implore you to let the gentle island breezes lift you up and transport you back to a simpler time.
Editor’s Notes:
There is no way for me to verify this but I’ve read that celebrities like Robert Redford, Perry Como, Kenny Rogers, Andy Garcia, Kenny Chesney, Derek Jeeter, Beyonce, Jay Z and Leonardo DiCaprio have all crossed Miss Annie’s threshold. You should visit with her too.
I stayed at the Abaco Beach Resort when I was in The Abacos.
I was born and raised in the beautiful island of Jamaica and while I grew up with an appreciation for my country’s lush tropical vegetation, white-sand beaches, rolling hills and scenic roadways, I sometimes took those assets for granted. Interestingly, as I grew older and travelled to, or lived in other countries I realized how naturally stunning my country and other islands in the Caribbean really are. As islanders we live where people dream of going on vacation and we should pause more often to take it all in.
Below, I’ve compiled a few images from just five Caribbean islands to illustrate my point.
A week ago today, I got stung by a killer bee in Nevis. Don’t panic! My condition was not caused by contact with a honeybee or a bumblebee. Nor did it invoke any pain or allergies. In fact, it was quite a heady experience.
Oh, how I remember that day clearly! It was near high noon and my travel companions and I sought refuge in the air-conditioned vehicle of our Nevisian host while the sun buttered the narrow road leading to the source of my “liquid affliction”.
That memorable place was Sunshine’s Beach Bar & Grill, a very festive yet unimposing-looking structure on Pinney’s Beach. It is arguably one of the most celebrated parcels of real estate on the island.
In case you’ve never heard about it, please pay close attention now. You cannot visit Nevis and not go to eat at Sunshine’s or sample their Killer Bee, its world-renown rum punch. The drink gradually creeps up on you but you feel fine as long as you are seated. Stand up quickly and that’s a different story. Believe me, things can get noticeably mellow from there.
I am willing to guess that former US President Bill Clinton can tell you all about the fare at Sunshine’s. From all the pictures proudly displayed on its rustic drift wood walls, it is also safe to assume that Oprah, John Travolta, Britney Spears, Ellen DeGeneres, Jay Z, Beyonce and countless other celebrities can do so too.
A closely guarded recipe that was effortlessly thrown together in response to a 1995 drink competition, the Killer Bee is now unofficially a Nevis national treasure. According to Sunshine, the basic entry requirement was it had to be “easy and reasonable” to make. A combination of white and dark rum (he won’t divulge which ones), passion fruit, nutmeg and bitters, it is one of the most potent rum punches you’ll sample anywhere.
The food is fantastic too! We had sampler plates of the fresh tuna, grouper, lobster, ribs and one of the most tantalizing garden salads that I’ve ever tasted – mango cutlets included.
And nothing can compare to the size and magnetism of Sunshine’s personality. He is the owner after who the bar is named. As soon as we exited the SUV and walked up to the entrance, the legend himself met us on the top step with an effusive smile and firm handshake .
“Hello, I am Sunshine“, were the first words he said. After that, his aura took over and it silently screamed ‘warmth’ and ‘a genuine love of people’.
With that megawatt presence, it’s clear how he got that name. The rest – his business acumen and sustained success in spite of numerous odds – is now well-documented history.
Go visit with him when you can.
The 120-mile long chain of islands and cays scattered in the northern part of the Bahamas could be the reason the Abacos is a boater’s paradise. But just as easily,the blatant lack of hustle and bustle and the sheer luxury of non-existent deadlines could hold the larger appeal.
Whatever the reason, it cannot be denied that where men go beer, rum and other adult beverages often follow. Simply translated that means the area is brimming with great bars; there is one almost at every ferry or dinghy stop.
If you ever have reason to visit the Out Islands of the Bahamas, I recommend that you visit at least one of these four beach bars:
Cracker P’s Bar and Grill on Lubbers Quarters.
You pull up to the dock and walk directly into an indoor/outdoor space that vibrates with positive energy. Perhaps the only thing more expansive than the panoramic views and the bar itself is the owner’s engaging personality. Patrick and his wife, Linda, and their staff make you feel at home from the get-go. The bar has an extensive rum list, a specially crafted hot sauce, and a casual menu chock-full of seafood options. You simply must try the cheesy fish dip! Even my hips will tell you it’s sinfully good. And ask about their legendary Full Moon Parties. I heard they are not to be missed.
Curly Tails in Marsh Harbor.
This spot is a great place to unwind, meet up with friends and enjoy some libations and food while you bask in the view or wait for the ferry to Great Guana Cay. It is a casually chic hangout that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and they have a wide selection of fine wines, premium liquors and beers. Try their conch fritters or grouper burger, and look around for the fast-moving curly tail lizards for which the bar got its name.
Nipper’s is the place to be on a Sunday afternoon.
It is a colorful and vibrant bar in Guana Cay that sits atop a sand cliff, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Locals and visitors converge there for the weekly pig roast and to sip some of the best frozen drinks you’ll find anywhere. If you go on Sunday, expect a crowd and be prepared to have fun. It gets loud, and sometimes a little crazy so no party poopers are allowed.
Snappas Chill and Grill is a great spot for cocktails.
It has a relaxing atmosphere and friendly staff, and it’s right on the water. I watched the sunset from there on the second night of my trip and it was simply breathtaking. They offer daily Happy Hour specials from 5:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. and live entertainment on Fridays and Saturdays.
Cheers!
Note: A version of this post originally appeared on TravelDudes.org as I am one of the many contributors to the site. Check it out.