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Street food is Cartagena’s best kept secret

I can’t wait to tell you about the day I ate my way through the streets of Cartagena! But first, please give me a minute to stroke my tummy while I reminisce about the explosion of flavors I experienced during that palate-friendly walking tour.

Yum, yum. BURP.

Busy stuffing my hands and face with street goodies. See all those dressings on the side?
Busy stuffing my hands and face with street goodies. See all those dressings on the side?

Even after I booked the excursion, I couldn’t explain what had come over me. I have a very delicate stomach that doesn’t hesitate to let me know when I’ve ingested something that doesn’t go down well. So naturually, I tend to be careful about my food choices when I’m away from home. But all that caution – born of sometimes painful and/or embarrassing repercussions – flew out the window when I visited the vibrant seaport town that dots Colombia’s northern coast.  Cartagena’s fusion of Latin, Caribbean and African cuisines were inspiration enough to defy my fears and make me dive tongue first into the unknown.

The first order of business was taking my probiotic tablet. I gotta keep it teal. My digestive system needs those good bacteria to keep it working like it should!
The first order of business was taking my probiotic tablet. I gotta keep it real. My digestive system needs those small bursts of good bacteria to keep it working like it should!

There was a variety of food carts, trucks and stands scattered throughout the colorful streets of the Walled City and neighboring towns like Getsemani. At almost every corner, vendors sold a wide range of foods that ranged from deep-fried starches to fresh fruit while the locals ignored us tourists and carried on with everyday life.

A domino game in play in Getsemani.
A domino game in play in Getsemani.

And one of the best parts of the experience was the fact that I could relish the delicacies while learning about local culture and folklore.  As far as ambiance goes, eating mango biche while walking past refurbished, colonial-style mansions and admiring multi-hued looms springing from second-floor balcony gardens, wasn’t too bad either.

I started the tour at the Statue of Jose Fernandez by the Plaza Fernandez de Madrid. It was across from The Cocoa and Chocolate Museum.  I just had to pop inside for a little visit before the other members of the group arrived. Cocoa plant

Arepas – These are flatbreads made of white or yellow corn and stuffed with cheese and butter.

Two types of arepas brought to you courtesy pf the local street vendors
Two types of arepas brought to you courtesy of the local street vendors

arepas in the street

Patacones  – As an island girl, I grew up eating friend green plantains accompanied by different proteins for breakfast or supper, but the Colombian version had a different twist to it. They were soaked in a salty, garlic-flavored marinade first, fried to a crispy texture and devoured as the main meal.

See that liquid in the pan to the front? It has the garlic and salt seasoned marinade in it.

Mango Biche – These are thin slices of unripe mango soaked in lime juice and seasonings, prettily displayed like extra-large fries in a cup. It had an unusual flavor; equal parts tarty and savory.

There were so many different fruits for sale all around Cartagena. And they were the fresh, not supermarket-weary variety.
There were so many different fruits for sale all around Cartagena. And they were the fresh, not supermarket-weary variety.

Empanada de huevo – Empanadas are made of corn and stuffed with beef and egg, with a sudeo ( white cream sauce) on top. We learnt these snacks are the scrumptious result of Latin, African, Syrian and Lebanese culinary influences. food container

Matrimonio – once upon a time, a sweet boy named ‘Guava’ met a full-bodied girl named ‘Cheese’ and it was love at first sight.  They hung out, got married, and lived happily ever after. guava and cheese

Chicharron – O.M.G. This pork dish is pure bliss. Crispy on the outside, and flavorful and tender on the inside, it hits the G-spot with every single bite. [Don’t gape at me. I meant G as in gastric!What were YOU thinking?]. I had it with boiled yuca, also known as cassava. Three servings still left me ravenous and yearning for more. Pork belly

pork

Café Mural – I ended the day at a small shop run by David, an engineer who decided to leave his lucrative job in Bogota to pursue his true passion – coffee. The table behind his bar counter looked like a mini science lab. It was stacked with test tubes, multiple-sized measuring cups and other equipment I couldn’t identify. inside cafe

But there was method to what appeared to be his crazy but lovable professor madness. David, whose grandfather owned a coffee farm, lives to experiment with new blends. I don’t drink coffee but the others in my tour group raved about the blends they tasted.  I had a long glass of a mellow chocolate drink that was a fitting end to my day. outside cafe

ARE YOU HUNGRY YET?

Editors notes:

In case you want to do something similar, I booked this tour with Cartagena Connections. Tours last between three to four hours and require a two person minimum. They depart at 2:30 p.m. daily. The cost was $30 when I did it.  With that price, you get to sample about eight items but you’re encouraged to take extra pesos and try anything else that catches your eye.

Must-try Spanish foods

Local cuisine is such an important component of the overall travel experience! I don’t know what grabs your attention when you visit a new destination but in my case, I remember places, interactions, activities… and the food.

Having a late supper wiith friends in Madrid
Having a late supper wiith friends in Madrid

I’ll be the first to confess that I’m particular about flavor, presentation and freshness, so I don’t always have the rub-my-tummy-in-foodie-ecstasy experiences I’d like to. But sometimes, to my complete surprise and utter delight, I do. In a previous post, I already declared how much I enjoyed the food in Italy. Now I’ll let you in on another big secret: I was a goner for the food in Madrid too!

Of course, everyone has heard about the Spanish dish paella. Well, the full plate of this epicurean delicacy that I devoured while in Europe met and exceeded my gastric expectations. But you cannot leave Spain and not try one or more of these other dishes as well.

Tortilla de patatas (or tortilla española)

The Spanish Tortilla (Image source: www.finecooking.com)
Image source: www.finecooking.com

Forget what you know about the Mexican Tortilla because this is nothing like it. More potatoes than egg, the Spanish Tortilla is a version of an omelet that is several times more filling than its American counterpart. It is served warm, cool or at room temperature and is popular at all times of the day. You can order it for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Croquetas  

Image Source: www.cocina.ahorro.net
Image Source: www.cocina.ahorro.net

Served in most bars and restaurants, croquetas are small, lightly breaded fried rolls that are popular appetizers or tapas. (Tapas is the all-encompassing Spanish term for snacks, canapés or finger foods). There are many different varieties but the ones with cod (fish), spinach, ham or chicken fillings are most common.

Huevos estrillados

Image source: sheerluxe.com
Image source: www.sheerluxe.com

This is a combination of sunny-side up eggs spread over french fries or regular fried potatoes and ham. (Yes, the Spanish LOVE their eggs and potatoes). The secret to the recipe lies in getting the run of the yolk just right.   I heard that THE place to try them is at a traditional restaurant frequented by the in-crowd (i.e. actors, bankers and bullfighters ) called Casa Lucio where it is the signature dish.

Jamón

Cured ham (Image source: papaserra.files.wordpress)
Image source: www.papaserra.files.wordpress

Believe me, there is ham… and then there is Spanish ham. There are several types served in various parts of the country but here is a little tip: ask for jamón ibérico, the five-star crème de la crème of hams. The equivalent of the Peking Duck to the Chinese, this specially cured variety has been a part of Spanish culture for centuries. What makes this ham so prized and tasty is the origin of the meat – the pigs that are raised solely on sweet acorns in Jabugo, a town in southwestern Spain.

Berenjenas con Miel

Image Source: 12tomatoes.com
Image Source: www.12tomatoes.com

I am not a lover of eggplant but I included this option so that strict vegans would have something to look forward to as well. Non-diary and non-meat eaters can try fried eggplant drizzled with honey. It is a dish that originated in Málaga, the southeastern region of Spain

Manchego cheese

Image source: themachegocheese.com
Image source: www.themachegocheese.com

In case you haven’t realized this yet, I am a HUGE sucker for cheese. I went wild trying tons of Dutch cheese while in Holland and this sheep milk blend that I was introduced to in Madrid was mouthwateringly delicious with crackers. Hailing from the region of the famous Don Quixote, Manchego is to Spain what cheddar is to England – a popular staple in many households and dining establishments. Its taste is rooted in the unpasteurized process and in its aging that can last any time between 60 days and two years.

So there you have it. You’re now sufficiently prepared to order like a local when going out to eat in one of the many bustling terrazos (open air cafés) around town. You can accompany your meal with a Clara, a drink that tastes a bit like Shandy. If you are not familiar with than brand, it’s like a combination of a light beer and lemon. Or, if that kind of beverage does not appeal to you, there is always the refreshing and satisfying options of red or white sangria.

Buen apetito!

___

Editor’s Notes:

You may not believe this but I was able to try all of the above-mentioned dishes in one night. The secret to achieving that kind of feat is to order sampler plates that allow you to share the contents with your dining buddies and taste to your heart’s content.

Please note I used internet images to illustrate what the dishes looked like because this trip was some years ago – long before I started this travel blog – so back then I was more concerned with hanging out than snapping pictures. Nowadays, I know I must master the art of doing both.