When I last visited the Bahamian Out Islands, I had the distinct pleasure of meeting Joe Albury, one of the oldest living descendants of the famous Albury boat building dynasty.
Joe Albury (front row, second from left) as a young boy surrounded by his family
Joe is a soft-spoken man of medium height and build who moves with slow steps. At a glance, his weather-beaten skin tells a vivid story of a lifetime lived on the open seas and under the blazing Caribbean sun. However, don’t let his crown of silver hair and his slightly slurred speech fool you.
Joe Albury in his workshop
He is a testament to mental and physical strength. And his intimate knowledge of his craft is undeniable. I never asked him his age but Mr. Albury must be older than 80. Yet, this wizened seafarer makes boat making look easy – in a studio in his backyard!
The exterior of Joe’s Studio
His trademark design is called an ‘Abaco dinghy’ and a specially commissioned 13-footer built by Joe Albury will cost you somewhere in the region of US$18,000. As he works on his own and does it in his spare time, expect at least an 18 month wait if you place an order. His boats are very much in demand.
A dinghy in progress
Can’t afford one or have no reason or desire to go sailing? Don’t despair. He sells hand-made 1/2″, 1″ and 1 1/2″ scale models in his store at much more affordable rates. What’s more, the miniatures are made from local woods such as madiera and corkwood so they serve as lasting and unique souvenirs.
The “Yippee” dinghy, built on Man-O-War Cay circa 1948 and displayed near the dock
Across the street, his relatives Don and Jamie run the more modern center-console and runabout boat production operation known as Albury Brothers Boats.
A center- console boat design
During my brief time with him, I learnt he had no heir or able apprentice waiting in line to carry on this venerable dinghy building tradition. I thought to myself, “how sad!’” It’s always disheartening to learn that long-held skills will not be passed on to future generations.
Despite being touted as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, I didn’t have a clue what to expect when I arrived in Edinburgh. To be honest, I secretly wondered if it would be as cold and as wet as London, all the while crossing my fingers and fervently hoping that the people weren’t as “proper” and the architecture wasn’t as pompous. Thankfully, my wishes came through. Cloaked in the royal garb of a castle – an imposing structure perched high on top of a hill – the city is nothing short of magnificent.
A view of the Holyrood Castle
Like a vibrant woman with a megawatt personality and a deep-rooted sense of self, Edinburgh is statuesque and regal, and resplendent with poise and grace. Clearly, she’s lived a colorful life and has aged gracefully, yet she remains a delightful reservoir of new discoveries. I absolutely loved the three days I spent in her warm embrace.
Below is a list of things you should try to do while there.
Stroll through the Georgian New Town where people watching and window shopping on the ultra-chic Princes Street will come naturally. Make time to pop into a local coffee shop, take your picture with a kilt-wearing bagpipe player or simply admire the surrounding architecture that is neoclassical and Georgian in design.
Having a little fun on Princes Street
Try traditional Scottish meals. Two popular dishes are mince and tatties (ground beef and mashed potatoes) and haggis. The latter has a pudding-iike consistency and is made up of sheep’s entrails (heart, liver and lungs) mixed with spices, oatmeal and stock. Be warned: it is not for the faint of heart!
Discover snippets of Scottish history amidst the cobblestone streets of medieval Old Town. With the Royal Mile at its center, this section of town has several narrow alleys and concealed courtyards that beckon with whispers about the days of old. Not only are the short flashes of time-travel captivating, but the fine craftsmanship and detail on many of the Reformation-era former tenement buildings will leave you standing in awe. The most prominent structure in the area will be the 800-year-old St. Giles Cathedral; both its exterior and interior are exquisite.
St. Giles Cathedral
If you have even the slightest hint of Scottish ancestry, visit the Tartan Weave Exhibition where you can search for your clan ancestry and crest. I found my family’s tartan ( a checkered cloth pattern) on my maternal side. Afterwards, slip into the Museum on the Mound where you will see, among other things, its million dollar exhibit. That’s the closest I think I’ll ever get to the real thing.
Have lunch at Maison Bleue, an intimate retro-style bistro that is tucked away on Victoria Street, just off the Royal Mile. Its menu is inspired by French, North African and Scottish influences and you can get a delectable three-course meal for a reasonable price.
Banoffee pie, a traditional English treat made from bananas, cream and toffee from boiled condensed milk.
Check to see what’s playing at the Festival and King’s City Theatres. Their shows range from dramatic plays to concerts and dance performances designed to please all audiences. When I was there, I saw a dance recital featuring a touring troupe from the Netherlands and the show was fantastic.
Book a day excursion that gets you out of the city and into the gorgeous Highlands. I went on an eye-popping ride through the industrial heartland into Glasgow and then across the Firth of Clyde to see Loch Lomond, Britain’s largest expanse of fresh water and the reputed home of the Loch Ness Monster. From there, a whimsical adventure began. The rounded lilt of our driver/tour guide acted as musical score and the visuals that emerged all around us served as the main scenes in what looked like a period-piece movie set. The imagery was so surreal, I was very nearly convinced I was driving through a big-budget Hollywood sound stage. But it was the real deal.
Surreal scenery in the Scottish Highlands ( photo from dangerous-business.com)
As the bus meandered deeper and deeper into the refreshingly unspoiled countryside, our view alternated between nonchalantly grazing cows and sheep; stretches of blessedly noise- and pollutant-free open spaces; and riotous untended patches of wild thistle, heather and bluebells that sometimes stretched as far as the eye could see. (Bluebells are flowers that actually look purple and they only bloom once per year. They are stunning.)
Highland Cow – look at him long enough and his mouth twitches. (photo from www.photography-scotland.com)
Take a scenic ride to see Stirling Castle in the Trossachs, nestled in the foothills of the Highlands. The former home of the Stewart kings and queens of Scotland, it later served as a military garrison and training facility, Today, it is a tourist attraction. If you go, a visit to the Tapestry Studio is a must. At the time I visited, I was fascinated to watch two women who were trying to recreate the tapestry in the King’s and Queen’s rooms. We were told they had been bent over one design for three years already when I saw them, That little tidbit certainly highlighted the level of detail involved in the process.
A replica of what a medieval kitchen looked like at Sterling Castle
Set aside some time to enter the hallowed halls of the National Art Gallery of Scotland in order to capture the spirit of the Renaissance era and others leading up to the 20th century via their displays of fine art.
And the icing on the cake is this: you absolutely MUST take a hike up to Carlton Hill to stand on tip-toe and try to kiss the sky. The view, that feeling of weightlessness and the crisp freshness of the air, are incomparable!
Capturing the scenery on top pf Carlton Hill
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Editor’s Notes:
You may have noticed I didn’t list one pub or whiskey bar, right? They are there but they are just not my thing, (smile)
Some of my best shopping finds are uncovered in the places I least expect them to be. So imagine my delight when I stumbled across The Coconut Body Shop in Caicos Café Plaza in Providenciales, Turks and Caicos. It is across the street from Ocean Club Westand this little store is undeniably a special place.
The Coconut Body Shop in Turks and Caicos
Run by a tall and lanky Belgian expat named Kristof, the store sells products made from virgin coconut oil and other aloe-based skin care lines that are chemical-free. Baby safe and reef safe*, these therapeutic essential blends and hair and body oils are good for multiple skin conditions, massages, diaper rashes and more.
The extensive product line available at The Coconut Body Shop
And he makes them himself! I was so impressed, I asked him how.
Kristof said he picks the mature coconuts before they are ready to germinate (put out shoots), then he allows them to dry. The remaining water is collected and set aside before the meat is grated into shreds. The next step involves re-adding some of the water to the shredded meat and the combined mixture is placed in a cheesecloth that is then run through a manual wine press.
Mature Coconuts
Depending on the humidity outdoors and other existing weather conditions, he allows the mixture to ferment anywhere between 24 to 48 hours before he begins his gravity-led filtration process that is repeated seven times.
I stood there slack-jawed as he patiently explained the process to me. My poor brain struggled to connect all the dots.
Small bottling and labelling work station
“Wait a minute. You told me you were an ocean transportation and shipping country manager in your former life, right?” I asked, slightly perplexed.
He smiled and nodded, indicating a modest yes.
“Okay, so please explain again how you learned to do this.” I persisted, not quite believing he had no prior experience. Because by all appearances, he had successfully managed to radically change careers in the seven years since he’d moved to the island.
“Through rigorous research and by a process of trial and error,” he good-naturedly responded.
Kristof, the store owner
Kristof produces the raw oil every two to three weeks and combines products daily. As a result, he splits his time between production and sales. So, do not be surprised if you don’t find him at the store after one o’clock in the afternoon.
The courteous expat also told me his wife was an aesthetician and she was able to help him gauge the caliber of the final product. They got it right! I’ve been using his Cold Press Virgin Coconut Oil for Hair and Body since I returned home and it is working wonders on my skin. I also love the fact that it has no overpowering fragrance and it absorbs quickly. If you’re ever there, try it. Your pores will love you!
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*Reef safe means that if you’ve used the products and go diving or snorkeling, they won’t cause bleaching of the reef as products with a chemical base would do.
December 2015 UPDATE: On a return trip to Provo in December, I found out that Kristof had to close his retail outlet but he still manufactures his product and sells it wholesale. You can visit their Facebook page to learn more: Click here.
What began as a small bag and purse-making operation in a modest seafarer’s home more than sixty years ago, is now ‘Albury’s Sail Shop’; a notable landmark and viable business on Man-O-War Cay. Travelers who enjoy visiting places with character or appreciate owning original products that are not mass produced need to add this shopping find to your things-to-do list, if they are ever in the Out Islands of the Bahamas.
Albury’s Sail Shop, Man-O-War Cay
Miss Annie, the warm and affable matriarch who runs the family-owned business, has an endearing “Come Home to Mama” personality that envelopes you as soon as you enter the store. A third-generation seamstress, she invokes feelings of happy gatherings around the dinner table and triggers an unexplainable desire to run around giving random bear hugs to every third or fourth person you meet.
A smiling Miss Annie at her sewing machine
Albury’s Sail shop uses sturdy canvas – material that is integral to the production of boat sails – to make colorful hats, bags and other products that are one-of-a kind. The shop’s extensive line is impressive in its own right but even more so given its history. Miss Annie’s ancestors started the cottage industry by making small draw-string bags from leftover scraps of canvas.
A sampling of the various styles and patterns available at Albury’s Sail Shop
The best part is, the shop’s open floor plan allows you to stand inside, lean against a wall outside, or perch beneath a jalousie-style window and watch the production process unfold. I was pleasantly surprised that the items are all reasonably priced in spite of the labor-intensive process.
The machine Miss Annie uses was owned by her grandmother before her. Like a trusted horse that knows every foothold of a cliff because it has gone that way before, three antique but well-oiled and functional sewing machines lead the seamstresses through the ropes. The only difference was rather than the clicking sound generated by trotting hoofs, the room was filled with staccato bursts akin to whirring hums.
Two other ladies sewing canvas bags in Alburys Sail Shop
I encourage you to stand still for a few minutes and watch the ladies work. Then I implore you to let the gentle island breezes lift you up and transport you back to a simpler time.
Editor’s Notes:
There is no way for me to verify this but I’ve read that celebrities like Robert Redford, Perry Como, Kenny Rogers, Andy Garcia, Kenny Chesney, Derek Jeeter, Beyonce, Jay Z and Leonardo DiCaprio have all crossed Miss Annie’s threshold. You should visit with her too.
At some point in our travels we all have fallen prey to a tourist trap or two. You know, those popular attractions that are mentioned in every destination guide and where crowds and long queues to enter are common. If the experience is worth it, I don’t mind the hassle but if I walk away underwhelmed, I mind it – a lot.
With that in mind, I put together a short list for those of you headed to London. Be warned: All the attractions listed will be swarming with tourists but I think they live up to the hype.
Changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace
According to the Washington Post there are 26 monarchies in the world forming “a fascinating network of kings, queens, sultans, emperors and emirs who rule or reign over 43 countries in all”. However, none is as prominent as Britain’s Royal Family so no trip to London is complete without a visit to see Buckingham Palace.
Changing of The Guards
If you are in London, schedule your visit to coincide with the Changing of the Guards ceremony. Between May and July, it takes place at 11:30 a.m. daily and happens every other day for the rest of the year, weather permitting. It’s a dignified exhibition of British pomp and pageantry while guards exchange duty posts.
And, it is free to watch.
Tower of London
The Tower of London, also known as Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress, was built by William the Conqueror after his invasion of England in 1066 and over the years was used as a zoo, an armoury, and a place of torture and death. Today, it showcases much of London’s history.
Historical re-enactment on lawn
Ceremonial guardians of the Tower, who are called Beefeaters, take you on guided walking tours where they regale you with bloody tales as you traverse the torture rooms and see horrifying tools used on former prisoners. The graffiti they left behind on the walls tells its own story. Additionally, there is a room that houses the impressive yet ostentatious Crown Jewels and there are displays from the Royal Armouries’ collection in the White Tower. Please note, the dramatic re-enactments of bravery and tragedy by actors in period costumes are not to be missed. They are colorful and animated spectacles.
Admission starts at £22.00 | US$35.per ticket.
The London Eye
If you appreciate stunning views and are not afraid of heights, add the London Eye to your list of must-dos. This attraction is the city’s 135 meter-high equivalent to a giant ferris wheel (the Brits call it an observation wheel) that gives 360-degree views of many iconic landmarks.
One bubble (capsule) of The London Eye
You sit or stand in one of its 32 high-tech glass capsules as they rotate slowly above the Thames River. The ride lasts for 30 minutes and during that time you see gradually changing vistas of London. Within each capsule, you can listen to interactive guides in several languages.
Admission is £20.70 | US$ 33 per ticket. Children aged four and under are free.
Madame Tussauds
While Madame Tussauds wax museums are not unique to London (there are 19 branches worldwide) I think the one in London is worth visiting because it was the city where the concept started. As their website says, it is the ‘ultimate celebrity day out’ and it provides the perfect selfie stick photo op next to the wax version of the famous person you always hoped to meet.
Bob Marley
There are more than 300 life-sized replicas of many of the world’s favorite actors, sports icons, television personalities, politicians and musicians. Kids will go ‘bananas’ over the Marvel Superheros section and die-hard fans of Star Wars will go ‘bonkers’ over the newly added franchise characters. I hung out with Tyra Banks, Will Smith, President Barak Obama, Brad Pitt and more. In addition to numerous ‘celebrity sightings’, you also can opt for a look behind-the-scenes to see how the sculptors create their works of art.
Admission starts at £31.00 | US$48 per ticket.
Editor’s Notes:
In my opinion, one attraction that definitely did not live up to the hype when I visited a few years ago was the London Dungeon. The marketing material made promises of ‘a thrill-filled journey through London’s murky past’ where ‘you get 90 minutes of laughs, scares, theatre, shocks, rides, special effects, characters, jokes, mazes and storytelling’. Delicately put, that is complete hogwash. Unless things have radically changed and you have kids under ten who are terrified of their own shadow, I say skip it and use your money for something else that offers more value.
Note: Prices quoted are as at June 2015 and are subject to change.
I was born and raised in the beautiful island of Jamaica and while I grew up with an appreciation for my country’s lush tropical vegetation, white-sand beaches, rolling hills and scenic roadways, I sometimes took those assets for granted. Interestingly, as I grew older and travelled to, or lived in other countries I realized how naturally stunning my country and other islands in the Caribbean really are. As islanders we live where people dream of going on vacation and we should pause more often to take it all in.
Below, I’ve compiled a few images from just five Caribbean islands to illustrate my point.
Beach tables at Da Conch Shack, Providenciales (Turks and Caicos)
Lush green foliage at Goblin HIll Villas at San San in Port Antonio (Jamaica)Majestic mountain range, enchanting gardens and a traditional Caribbean-styled home at The Hermitage (Nevis)Colorful kayaks along Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman (Cayman Islands)
A week ago today, I got stung by a killer bee in Nevis. Don’t panic! My condition was not caused by contact with a honeybee or a bumblebee. Nor did it invoke any pain or allergies. In fact, it was quite a heady experience.
Killer Bee from Sunshine’s Beach Bar
Oh, how I remember that day clearly! It was near high noon and my travel companions and I sought refuge in the air-conditioned vehicle of our Nevisian host while the sun buttered the narrow road leading to the source of my “liquid affliction”.
That memorable place was Sunshine’s Beach Bar & Grill, a very festive yet unimposing-looking structure on Pinney’s Beach. It is arguably one of the most celebrated parcels of real estate on the island.
Entrance to Sunshine’sView of the beach at Sunshine’s
In case you’ve never heard about it, please pay close attention now. You cannot visit Nevis and not go to eat at Sunshine’s or sample their Killer Bee, its world-renown rum punch. The drink gradually creeps up on you but you feel fine as long as you are seated. Stand up quickly and that’s a different story. Believe me, things can get noticeably mellow from there.
I am willing to guess that former US President Bill Clinton can tell you all about the fare at Sunshine’s. From all the pictures proudly displayed on its rustic drift wood walls, it is also safe to assume that Oprah, John Travolta, Britney Spears, Ellen DeGeneres, Jay Z, Beyonce and countless other celebrities can do so too.
Ellen DeGeneres standing next to Sunshine’sBritney Spears and a friend (or fan) at Sunshine’sJohn Travolta and Oprah
A closely guarded recipe that was effortlessly thrown together in response to a 1995 drink competition, the Killer Bee is now unofficially a Nevis national treasure. According to Sunshine, the basic entry requirement was it had to be “easy and reasonable” to make. A combination of white and dark rum (he won’t divulge which ones), passion fruit, nutmeg and bitters, it is one of the most potent rum punches you’ll sample anywhere.
The food is fantastic too! We had sampler plates of the fresh tuna, grouper, lobster, ribs and one of the most tantalizing garden salads that I’ve ever tasted – mango cutlets included.
Succulent and tender ribsThe lobster at Sunshine’s is divine!Fresh grouperSalad at Sunshine’s
And nothing can compare to the size and magnetism of Sunshine’s personality. He is the owner after who the bar is named. As soon as we exited the SUV and walked up to the entrance, the legend himself met us on the top step with an effusive smile and firm handshake .
“Hello, I am Sunshine“, were the first words he said. After that, his aura took over and it silently screamed ‘warmth’ and ‘a genuine love of people’.
Sunshine and me. Wonder if I’ll ever make his wall? (Giggle)
With that megawatt presence, it’s clear how he got that name. The rest – his business acumen and sustained success in spite of numerous odds – is now well-documented history.
The 120-mile long chain of islands and cays scattered in the northern part of the Bahamas could be the reason the Abacos is a boater’s paradise. But just as easily,the blatant lack of hustle and bustle and the sheer luxury of non-existent deadlines could hold the larger appeal.
Whatever the reason, it cannot be denied that where men go beer, rum and other adult beverages often follow. Simply translated that means the area is brimming with great bars; there is one almost at every ferry or dinghy stop.
Now THAT is a rum list! (Cracker P’s)
If you ever have reason to visit the Out Islands of the Bahamas, I recommend that you visit at least one of these four beach bars:
You pull up to the dock and walk directly into an indoor/outdoor space that vibrates with positive energy. Perhaps the only thing more expansive than the panoramic views and the bar itself is the owner’s engaging personality. Patrick and his wife, Linda, and their staff make you feel at home from the get-go. The bar has an extensive rum list, a specially crafted hot sauce, and a casual menu chock-full of seafood options. You simply must try the cheesy fish dip! Even my hips will tell you it’s sinfully good. And ask about their legendary Full Moon Parties. I heard they are not to be missed.
This spot is a great place to unwind, meet up with friends and enjoy some libations and food while you bask in the view or wait for the ferry to Great Guana Cay. It is a casually chic hangout that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and they have a wide selection of fine wines, premium liquors and beers. Try their conch fritters or grouper burger, and look around for the fast-moving curly tail lizards for which the bar got its name.
Nipper’s is the place to be on a Sunday afternoon.
NIpper’s Beach Bar
It is a colorful and vibrant bar in Guana Cay that sits atop a sand cliff, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Locals and visitors converge there for the weekly pig roast and to sip some of the best frozen drinks you’ll find anywhere. If you go on Sunday, expect a crowd and be prepared to have fun. It gets loud, and sometimes a little crazy so no party poopers are allowed.
It has a relaxing atmosphere and friendly staff, and it’s right on the water. I watched the sunset from there on the second night of my trip and it was simply breathtaking. They offer daily Happy Hour specials from 5:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. and live entertainment on Fridays and Saturdays.
Cheers!
Note: A version of this post originally appeared on TravelDudes.org as I am one of the many contributors to the site. Check it out.
Have you been weighing the pros and cons of buying designer knockoffs during your next trip to China? It’s a popular tourist thing to do and you can get many label lookalikes there but here’s my humble suggestion – don’t do it.
First, haggling with vendors who don’t speak your language fluently is a highly advanced skill, not an effortless art. Also, when everything is said and done, the effort and time invested to own that fake “7 For All Mankind” jeans, “Louis Vitton” handbag or “Rolex” watch just really isn’t worth it.
The items may look good from afar but are far from good in reality. Besides, nine times out of 10, you aren’t really fooling anybody!
‘Bvlgari’ and ‘Emporio Armani’ watches
When I visited China, I decided to see what their thriving knockoff industry was all about. But I didn’t do my research at Han City, Qipu Lu, Hongqiao New World Pearl market or any of the numerous other venues you often read or hear about. I made an unscheduled stop in Beijing that you will never see on an official map or tour itinerary.
Some group members and I visited one of those shops that was clandestinely located down several steps, around a few corners and set behind a green tarpaulin entrance tucked far, far away. If you asked me to identify the place 30 minutes after I left it, I wouldn’t have been able to find it on my own. It was a highly mobile operation run by a well-oiled relay system.
Busy street in China
This is how it worked. Our bus driver made a call before approaching the drop-off location. The tour guide then walked us to a point where we were met by a liaison who led us to the designated establishment. Immediately afterwards, said liaison disappeared. I can’t verify this but I got the hair-on-the-back-of-my neck feeling there were ‘lookouts” in the operation network as well.
Someone I kept in touch with had problems with some impromptu watch purchases almost right away. The first sign of trouble was the constant need to replace batteries because the knockoffs stopped working regularly. Eventually, rust and corrosion set in.
I also know someone else who bought handbags for herself and a work colleague and the linings began stripping in no time. So why bother?
Authentic Chinese jade earrings bought at a jade factory
There are several great shopping options in China and truthfully, the indigenous finds are far more unique and memorable. You can look out for:
– silk products like scarfs, pyjamas or ties
– jade jewelry
– great teas and tea pots
– calligraphy and scroll paintings
Traditional Chinese lettering
I recommend getting creative with your shopping list when you travel. Why spend money on items you can get at home?
Genuine designer watches in your local Macy’s (retail store chain)
What do you think? Have you come across any truly unique shopping items on any of your trips? Please share!
According to Mayo Clinic, ‘Tai chi is an ancient Chinese tradition that, today, is practiced as a graceful form of exercise. It involves stretching and a series of movements performed in a slow, focused manner and accompanied by deep breathing. Each posture flows into the next without pause, ensuring that your body is in constant motion”.
Pavilion in Jingshan Park
I think the Chinese are on to a good thing here. It is widely believed that this ‘meditation in motion’technique does wonders for alleviating stress and anxiety levels – in the young and old.
Man stretching as part of his morning Tai chi routine
If you’re ever in Beijing, you should walk through Jingshan Park early one morning, say between 6 and 7 a.m., to see locals doing this graceful exercise.
Group exercise
If invited to do so, you can even join in.
Joining the group routine. I am sure you can spot the tourist, right? LOL
There are beautiful flowers and trees.
The park
Breathtaking views from Wanchna Pavilion, the highest point in the park.
