A lot has been said about Mexico and Mexicans in U.S. news lately, and very little of the rhetoric has been positive. Unfortunately, there’s been a broad and sweeping perpetuation of negative stereotypes that paint the country and its people as a mass exporter of drug dealers, rapists, and savage murderers. Sure, every country has some rotten eggs in the bunch (mine, and this one included), but guess what? I just got back from a trip to Playa del Carmen, and I’m happy to report that I didn’t meet one “bad hombre”.
Trying on colorful sombreros on 5th Avenue in Playa del Carmen
Well, to be 100% percent honest, I am deliberately not counting the crusty heeled and dusty feet guy standing outside one of the Yucatan’s most famous ruins who approached women telling them in halting English, “In America, people would call me a gigolo.” Oh, and get this, he listed the cost of his “services” as 500 pesos a day. In my mind, I was like, dude, please. You better go wash those unpleasant looking feet! LOL. (No, I am not kidding.)
But seriously, in dire contrast to the ugly caricature being portrayed about an entire nation, I met some great people and had a fantastic time on my mini vacation.
So, what exactly did I do and see?
I shimmied my hips with friendly and gregarious men dressed in tribal costume while they chanted to a hypnotic drum beat.
I gobbled up freshly made tapas, delicious tasting tacos, and drank refreshing sangria whenever I could.
Mayan woman making tapas in a traditional hut.
I wandered happily and aimlessly through the streets surrounding the popular Avenida Quinta (Fifth Avenue) area looking for souvenirs, admiring the facades of buildings, and observing the interactions between the locals and tourists.
Browsing the stalls on the busy Avenida Quinta (5th Avenue).
I checked out the trendiest beach clubs, where sun-worshippers and beach goers have access to lively music, drinks, food, and even massages for a fee.
Zenzi Beach Club, Playa del Carmen
I had interesting conversations with hard-working people like hotel front desk agent Belén, whose name is the Spanish version of Bethlehem (the place in Judah where King David and Jesus were born). Plus, I listened keenly to our day trip driver, Sergio, as he told me about his family, and their plans for expanding his small transportation business with help from his multi-lingual daughter who is scheduled to graduate from college very soon.
Meet Sergio Ramirez, proud owner of his own transfer and tour company.
I also visited underwater and above-ground swimming pools (cenotes) that were all naturally formed when limestone bedrock collapsed to expose the groundwater underneath.
Many cenotes are in underground caves, but quite a few can be accessed above ground as well.
Due to the constant exposure to the sun, the water in the open-air sink holes are believed to have blue green algae that is rich in nutrients, making it an excellent source of minerals that nourish and protect the skin.
Admiring the crystal, light blue waters of the Zacil-Ha cenote
The water in the underground caves? Nah, that’s just COLD. (Men, extra long dips have been known to result in shriveled body parts. My female counterparts, local folklore declares that we look five years younger after a swim).
Inside the Mul-Tun-Ha cenote
And.. I wandered spell-bound through the ancient ruins of Coba, Tulum and Chichén Itzá, three cities that were at the center of the Mayan empire at different times. I’ll write a more detailed post on those ruins soon (with tips included).
One section of Coba’s impressive ruinsThe remains of El Castillo at TulumMain pyramid in the Chichen Itza complex.
What was I reminded of with this trip? Sometimes things are not what others make them seem. It’s always best to explore for yourself so that you gain experiences and form impressions of your own.
Have you been to Mexico? If so, tell me which part, and what you thought about it.
Most people travel to Florida for one of two reasons: to visit amusement parks, or to enjoy water-based activities above or below the sea. But other than sunny skies, sand-lined shores and sensational slides, the Sunshine State also satisfies the desire for other types of vacations. Nature lovers, foodies, as well as culture and history buffs can decide NOT to pack their flip-flops or swimsuits and still have loads of fun. The one must-have anywhere in the state, is sunscreen. With average annual temperatures hovering near 85°F (29 °C), no one should leave home without good SPF protection.
Koreshan State Park
Below are three great activities for travelers who are considering spending time in Southwest Florida – away from the beach.
The Mound House
View of the museum and surrounding lawns from the dock
Anyone in need of tangible evidence that Calusa Indians were a huge part of Southwest Florida’s history 2000 years ago, need look no further than The Mound House on Fort Myers Beach. Documented as the first inhabitants of the Barrier Islands, the Calusa lived in fishing villages and their diet mostly consisted of shellfish and vegetables. They later used the shells to manufacture tools and build mounds that raised their sleeping abodes above sea level.
Recreation of the living room of the Case’s bungalow
The Mound House is both an archaeological and historical site. The main entrance recreates the living room of previous owner, the Case family. Antique furnishings that match the period were arranged using old photographs as a guide.
Utensils and sleeping gear of the Calusa Indians
Underneath the imposing main building, visitors get to see a section of the shell embankment while they listen to the story of its excavation. Pertinent facts are interspersed with a multi-layered, horizontal light display that shows the sections in the mound that relate to the finds being discussed. If you have kids, they will love the huge, colorful mural that dominates the left side of the room. It depicts the communal-style living of the Calusa and many of the artifacts discovered at the site are illustrated in various scenes. Upstairs rooms showcase Calusa Indian artifacts, a few interactive exhibits, and belongings from owners over the years.
The grounds are landscaped with different species of plants and trees, most of which are native to Florida.
The museum is open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays from 9a.m. to 4p.m.
Koreshan State Park
Located just off US Highway 41 on Corkscrew Road, this former religious settlement is a sprawling preserve along the Estero River featuring beautifully manicured lawns, meandering streams, exotic plant life of all shapes and sizes, and historic buildings. Guests also have access to picnic sites and camp grounds.
Kayakers paddling down the Estero River
A free walking tour is offered at 10 a.m. on weekends. Visitors can learn about the utopian community led by Dr. Cyrus R. Teed in the late 1800s up to his death in 1908. Teed had more than 200 followers, mostly women, relocate with him from New York after he took on the name “Koresh” which is the Hebrew word for means shepherd.
House of Dr. Tyrus Teed that also doubled as a schoolroom
To earn their livelihood they ran a bakery, sawmill, general store, printing facility and hotel at various times throughout their history. However, there are no living descendants today. The group’s vow of celibacy ultimately affected the community’s growth.
Gorgeous section of the gardens at Koreshan State Park
The park is open from 8a.m. until sunset, 365 days per year. Self-guided tour booklets are available at the entrance.
Edison and Ford Winter Estates
This 20-acre property – the imposing winter homes of the famed inventor Thomas Edison and his friend, car manufacturer, Henry Ford – spreads across both sides of a palm-tree lined section of McGregor Boulevard in Fort Myers.
Home where Thomas Edison spent his winters to get away from the cold.
The place attracts visitors in the thousands each year, a testament to the world’s ongoing curiosity to find out what environment could have contributed to the men’s incredible successes in science and car manufacturing. There must be a special muse in the air that engenders creativity, right? Be sure to visit to see for yourself.
Dock that leads out to the Caloosahatchee River. Before roads were built, it was the main means of transportation between cities.A “Joy Perfume” Tree that is native to Mexico.
The location is set amidst tropical gardens, and on the land-locked side of the street, it houses Edison’s Botanic Research Lab as well as the Estates’ Museum in which significant artifacts and inventions are displayed. The restored homes of both men are viewable on the side that borders the Caloosahatchee River, and on Henry Ford’s side of the compound, car enthusiasts can also see a collection of his classic automobiles.
The attraction is open daily from 9a.m. – 5:30p.m. Visitors have the option to take either guided, self-guided tours or audio tours.
Nevis, the sister-island to St. Kitts, is a 36 square mile lush and unspoiled slice of paradise. It’s about 217 miles (350 km) east-southeast of Puerto Rico and 50 miles (80 km) west of Antigua.
A tiny island that has more monkey crossings than stop lights, it has attracted, and continues to lure, its fair share of notable visitors.
It’s the place where Princess Diana went to escape the media spotlight after her divorce in 1996. In more recent times, the likes of Canada’s Prime Minister Justin Trudeau, Oprah Winfrey, Meryl Streep, Ellen DeGeneres, John Travolta, Beyoncé, Britney Spears and former US President Bill Clinton have visited.
If you are considering Nevis for your next Caribbean vacation, you could be their next A-list visitor!
Below, I’ve shared my suggestions for things to do when you go..
1. Visit the wedding site of Frances “Fanny” Nisbet and Admiral Horatio Nelson
If you’re in the mood to get whimsical, you can visit the wedding place of the decorated British naval officer who has a statue in his honor at London’s famed Trafalgar Square. Nelson and his wife Fanny got married under a silk cotton tree at Montpelier Estate in 1787, shortly before the end of his Caribbean tour of duty.
Entrance to Montepelier Plantation, chains away from the Nelson wedding site
2. See the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton
Alexander Hamilton is the man credited with being one of the most influential contributors to the U.S. Constitution. The oceanfront location houses a museum and the local parliament. I found it slightly surreal to walk through that modest looking abode and read about the early history of the man on the face of the US$10 bill.
The humble home that is now part museum, part center of Parliament
3. Dip your body, arms or toes in the therapeutic Bath Spring
This is a free outdoor “spa” supplied by hot volcanic waters that flow from a hillside. It is reputed to cure numerous aches and pains but be warned, the temperature gets very hot, so tourists are advised not to spend more than 10 minutes at a time soaking up its healing powers.
4. Explore the Botanical Gardens
All nature lovers will like this place because it is hard not to appreciate seeing the array of tropical trees, plants and shrubs that are so lovingly cared for by the efficient yet unobtrusive staff. What’s more, the quiet spaces, the Asian-influenced statues and the fountains make it feel like an oasis that will zap all your stress away.
That bench whispers R&R!
5. Get stung by a Killer Bee at the legendary Sunshine’s Bar and Grill
No, that’s not an insect; it’s a simple but powerful signature cocktail that will knock you sideways if it is consumed too quickly. Located on Pinney’s Beach, Sunshine’s is close to Four Seasons Nevis and it is an experience not to be missed.
Whether you opt for lunch at Golden Rock, a pre-dinner snack at Banana’s Bistro, a fancy four-course meal at Coconut Grove or simple local fare, just unbuckle your belt and give in 100% to the foodie experience. Simply plan to lose the pounds later because the meals are beyond good. You must try local favorites like the goat water (a thick, meaty soup) and Tanya fritters (made from root vegetables).
7. Tour the old sugar plantations that are now converted into hotels
Once a vibrant industry, sugar production used to be the backbone of the Nevisian economy. Evidence of that is seen in the many sugar mill ruins you’ll see as you drive around the island. Hermitage Plantation, Montpelier Plantation, Nisbet Plantation and Golden Rock Inn, were some of the ones I visited and they each had their own distinctive style.
8. Finally, no trip to the Caribbean would be complete without a few hours spent lazing on an uncrowded beach
I clocked my sun and sand time at the Paradise Beach Nevis but there are several places to choose from. Go pick out your beach chair and mark your own spot soon!
I can’t wait to tell you about the day I ate my way through the streets of Cartagena! But first, please give me a minute to stroke my tummy while I reminisce about the explosion of flavors I experienced during that palate-friendly walking tour.
Yum, yum. BURP.
Busy stuffing my hands and face with street goodies. See all those dressings on the side?
Even after I booked the excursion, I couldn’t explain what had come over me. I have a very delicate stomach that doesn’t hesitate to let me know when I’ve ingested something that doesn’t go down well. So naturually, I tend to be careful about my food choices when I’m away from home. But all that caution – born of sometimes painful and/or embarrassing repercussions – flew out the window when I visited the vibrant seaport town that dots Colombia’s northern coast. Cartagena’s fusion of Latin, Caribbean and African cuisines were inspiration enough to defy my fears and make me dive tongue first into the unknown.
The first order of business was taking my probiotic tablet. I gotta keep it real. My digestive system needs those small bursts of good bacteria to keep it working like it should!
There was a variety of food carts, trucks and stands scattered throughout the colorful streets of the Walled City and neighboring towns like Getsemani. At almost every corner, vendors sold a wide range of foods that ranged from deep-fried starches to fresh fruit while the locals ignored us tourists and carried on with everyday life.
A domino game in play in Getsemani.
And one of the best parts of the experience was the fact that I could relish the delicacies while learning about local culture and folklore. As far as ambiance goes, eating mango biche while walking past refurbished, colonial-style mansions and admiring multi-hued looms springing from second-floor balcony gardens, wasn’t too bad either.
I started the tour at the Statue of Jose Fernandez by the Plaza Fernandez de Madrid. It was across from The Cocoa and Chocolate Museum. I just had to pop inside for a little visit before the other members of the group arrived.
Arepas – These are flatbreads made of white or yellow corn and stuffed with cheese and butter.
Two types of arepas brought to you courtesy of the local street vendors
Patacones – As an island girl, I grew up eating friend green plantains accompanied by different proteins for breakfast or supper, but the Colombian version had a different twist to it. They were soaked in a salty, garlic-flavored marinade first, fried to a crispy texture and devoured as the main meal.
Mango Biche – These are thin slices of unripe mango soaked in lime juice and seasonings, prettily displayed like extra-large fries in a cup. It had an unusual flavor; equal parts tarty and savory.
There were so many different fruits for sale all around Cartagena. And they were the fresh, not supermarket-weary variety.
Empanada de huevo – Empanadas are made of corn and stuffed with beef and egg, with a sudeo ( white cream sauce) on top. We learnt these snacks are the scrumptious result of Latin, African, Syrian and Lebanese culinary influences.
Matrimonio – once upon a time, a sweet boy named ‘Guava’ met a full-bodied girl named ‘Cheese’ and it was love at first sight. They hung out, got married, and lived happily ever after.
Chicharron – O.M.G. This pork dish is pure bliss. Crispy on the outside, and flavorful and tender on the inside, it hits the G-spot with every single bite. [Don’t gape at me. I meant G as in gastric!What were YOU thinking?]. I had it with boiled yuca, also known as cassava. Three servings still left me ravenous and yearning for more.
Café Mural – I ended the day at a small shop run by David, an engineer who decided to leave his lucrative job in Bogota to pursue his true passion – coffee. The table behind his bar counter looked like a mini science lab. It was stacked with test tubes, multiple-sized measuring cups and other equipment I couldn’t identify.
But there was method to what appeared to be his crazy but lovable professor madness. David, whose grandfather owned a coffee farm, lives to experiment with new blends. I don’t drink coffee but the others in my tour group raved about the blends they tasted. I had a long glass of a mellow chocolate drink that was a fitting end to my day.
ARE YOU HUNGRY YET?
Editors notes:
In case you want to do something similar, I booked this tour with Cartagena Connections. Tours last between three to four hours and require a two person minimum. They depart at 2:30 p.m. daily. The cost was $30 when I did it. With that price, you get to sample about eight items but you’re encouraged to take extra pesos and try anything else that catches your eye.
Recently, I had a blast exploring sections of southwest Florida. I had no idea that Lee County, an area just about 125 miles (201 km) south of Tampa and 115 miles (185 km) west of Fort Lauderdale, had so many unique locations and islands! There are 15 of them, and I was on a self-directed mission to find my favorite.
Much to my amazement, I very quickly realized that was easier said than done because each place that I visited had its own little slice of something special. History, beautiful landscapes, culture, arts, nature…WOW. The unexpected surprises often took my breath away!
I’ll share more with you over time. For now, I’ll just take you on a visual journey.
Do you know what happens when you decide to book a three-night stay in an unknown destination the day before you fly? I’ll tell you. You fervently hope the domestic airline on the receiving end of your purchase click is reliable, then you scramble like a crazy person to finalize your hotel selection and come up with a workable itinerary for sightseeing.
That’s how I ended up in Medellin, Colombia during the time I was scheduled to be solely on vacation in the coastal town of Cartagena with the world’s best travel buddy (my sister). We were zen and totally chilling until we decided it would be cool to use the opportunity to visit another region of the country.
Although I ended up with uncomfortable tummy issues while there, I am glad we did it.
Scenic countryside on the way to our destination
The first tour we booked was a day trip to the picturesque town of Guatapé. Nestled between curvaceous hills and bordered by debonair lakes, the journey is just under two hours from Medellin.
Our first treat was a food stop to enjoy a traditional Colombian breakfast of hot chocolate, eggs, arepa, cheese and sausage courtesy of a local restaurant called El Rancherito Lo Mejor.
The open air setting and bench-styled seating all cleverly positioned around a visible working kitchen added an authentic old-world charm to the experience.
With sated stomachs, we then drove through scenic countryside that offered up spectacular views of hills and valleys, humble abodes and farms dedicated to different crops.
Soon, we arrived at the town of Marinella, a major cultural center that has been lauded as a place of “stories, guitars and great natural beauty”. The dramatic La Fenix De America monument in the town’s square had everyone on the bus clamoring to get off to take pictures
After a brief stop to capture the scenery, our bus driver then took us to El Peñol, a small town that had to be relocated after it sunk in the 1960s. Our tour guide said the government had built a hydroelectric dam to supply Medellin and surrounding areas with water but it caused severe flooding in the immediate area. As a result, many buildings were submerged. This picture shows me sitting in a bench before a replica of it.
From there, we boarded a vessel for a relaxing cruise along the Guatapé Reservoir where we saw fishermen passing by in their boats, beautiful mansions perched on the hillsides, and the remains of one of Pablo Escobar’s homes. They also pointed out one formerly occupied by his mother.
I also got pulled into an impromptu tourist version of either the vallenato, salsa or merengue. Watch me shake and shimmy like a pro. Riiight!
Lunch went down well in Guatapé at Asados Mi Casita. It was a typical meal of of beans, chicharron (fried pork belly), plantain, fresh salad and a fried egg.
I then took a stroll through the cobblestone streets that were reminiscent of Colonial times.
Shop keepers loitered near their doors, residents went about their daily business and nifty little motochivas zipped up and down the narrow streets. And oh, what a blast of color it was! The vivid buildings made me feel as if I was a guest character in a fun, coloring book.
Many of the lower half of the buildings were adorned with brightly painted “zócalos”. They are murals that depict everyday life.
The penultimate stop gave us a chance to climb the world-famous national monument known as La Piedra del Peñol, a giant rock that juts out of the landscape rising to 7000+ feet. Don’t quote me anywhere but to my somewhat warped mind, I think it resembles an oversized breast punctuated by a very erect nipple if you look at it sideways.
Attempt the climb only if you are at your fittest. I must say the views at different points along the way are well worth the strenuous 740-step ascent.
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Editor’s Notes:
I booked my tour with a company called Tours Guatapé and it cost $69.000 Colombian pesos, inclusive of breakfast and lunch with a Spanish-speaking guide. If you’d like to have English translation, there are no headsets. You must request a bilingual guide ahead of time – at a premium price. It was nearly three times higher. (Can you guess which option I took? Yup, I depended on my years-old and very rudimentary high school Spanish to make it through the day) Ask for Ale Guia (Spanish speaker) and David (English assistance) as your guides. Also, there is an additional charge to climb La Piedra.
As a side note, given my tummy issues, I’m cautioning you to be careful of the tap water in Medellin. I drank bottled water all the time but I only realized on the second day that the water I asked to be heated for my tea was not boiled. It was tap water put in a cup and heated in a microwave. The next day I was vigilant and asked the kitchen staff to use the water I provided.
Finally, English is not as widely spoken in Medellin as one may expect so please take a dictionary with you or download a foreign language app to assist you with communication.
Who doesn’t like to enjoy a good meal? We all do. In fact, the foodie experience is even more pleasurable when your taste buds are awakened with unexpected combinations of seasonings and spices, and when your senses of sight, sound and smell are dazzled by new surroundings. That’s why I always try local foods when I travel. You should too.
Epicureans, gastromes, gourmands and foodies of the world you can unite and thank me now because I’ve rounded up some of my favorite Caribbean meals for your sampling pleasure. They are listed in no particular order.
Name of Dish: Goat water soup
Oh, this puts the “heart” in hearty.
Country: Nevis, the sister island to St. Kitts
My consumption spot: Bananas Bistro, Upper Hamilton Estate
Description: Their version of goat water is a thick, full-bodied soup filled with carrots, small dumplings and root vegetables. Naturally, the main protein is goat meat. In other places, the soup has a more broth-like consistency and it is consumed as an appetizer; not the main course.
Name of dish: Conch salad
Nothing beats the taste of conch, freshly harvested from the sea.
Country: The Bahamas
My consumption spot: A gorgeous picnic laid out on an elusive sandbar known as Tahiti Beach in Andros, a part of the Bahamas Out Islands.
Description: Conch is a popular menu item in many islands and you can have it prepared in several ways. In this salad, the conch was caught right near our boat, taken from its shell, cleaned and cut into small pieces. Our boat captain turned impromptu chef added diced peppers, onions and tomatoes then poured lemon juice over the mixture to cure the uncooked meat, like in a ceviche.
Name of Dish: Ackee and Corned Pork
Ackee and corned pork with boiled bananas and yellow yam
Country: Jamaica
My consumption spot: M-10 Bar and Grill in Vineyard Town, Kingston
Description: Ackee is a fruit that is one half of the national dish of my home country, Jamaica. Usually it is served with sautéed salt fish (cod) but on occasion it is paired with other proteins like sausages and corned pork. When cooked, at a glance it looks like scrambled eggs but it has a much creamier texture. Incidentally, ackee with its favored partner, salt fish, recently earned the number two spot on National Geographic’s list of top national dishes around the world.
Name of dish: Oxtail with peas and rice
Oxtail has been one of my favorite dishes since childhood
Country: Cayman Islands
My consumption spot: Welly’s Cool Spot, Georgetown
Description: Yes, you read that right. The main ingredient in this dish is the tail of a cow! The meat is first tenderized in a pressure cooker and then slow-cooked to gelatinous perfection with fresh thyme, onions and other spices. Most places add butter beans to the mixture and serve it with kidney beans and rice, cooked with coconut milk for additional flavor.
Name of dish: Bake and Shark
Shark meat, anyone?
Country: Trinidad and Tobago
My consumption spot: Richard’s Bake and Shark, Maracas Bay
Description: Quite arguably the most famous beach food in Trinidad, this fish sandwich starts out as a simple combination of fried pieces of shark meat served within a bun. It ramps up to noteworthy finger-licking proportions once you add the choose-as-you-go accompaniments. Food patrons have a choice of toppings and sauces that range from the mundane mustard and ketchup regulars to the more exotic tongue pleasers like mango chutney, tamarind and Shado Beni (similar to cilantro).
10 narrow yet sturdy steps protected by a barred gate that goes up to waist level and an area bordered by rectangular-shaped glass. That is all that separates a sunny and vibrant present from a mysterious and brooding past in the small coastal town of Cartagena. The past is defined by the legend of Santa Clara and the palpable present is proliferated with stylish bar patrons sipping boozy cocktails just above an empty tomb.
The entrance to famous crypt inside the Hotel Sofitel Santa Clara.
Persons acted as if this UNESCO-protected burial site was just another fixture in the very well-appointed room. For me, three words came to mind. Mind-blowing. Weird. Creepy.
The unexpected juxtaposition of a crypt under a bar made my heart race a little and my flesh break out in goosebumps as I cautiously descended the stairs to see into the vault. Given my propensity for travel mishaps, I decided then and there that it was decidedly not the time to inadvertently trip and enter flat on my face or butt.
Lone book inside the crypt. Tell me, would you sign it?
Yes, you are piecing the puzzle together correctly! There is a crypt that doubles as an exhibition piece within a high-end Sofitel luxury hotel in Colombia. I have never seen anything like it on any of my travels before. When you visit Cartagena, go have a drink in their Bar El Torro or just pop inside like I did for a quick look around. The locals or your tour guide will gladly share the fanciful story of the girl that was buried there.
There are writings on the wall from previous centuries
The legend, as written by Colombian Nobel-prize winner Gabriel García Márquez, is about a 12-year-old child called Servia who had long, unbridled copper hair. Born with her umbilical cord around her neck, her entrance into the world wasn’t easy and she went through life plagued with difficulty. Servia grew up with slaves, then later contracted rabies after being bitten by a disease-filled dog. In an effort to heal her, she was sent to the convent of Santa Clara to be taken care of by nuns, who, in their well-intended but misguided efforts at finding suitable remedies finally resorted to exorcism, which is believed led to her death.
Doesn’t he look like he has no arms in this shot? Even the uniforms of the staff members are a little spooky!
Before her passing, it is said that a priest befriended her and used to sneak out of a leper’s hospital regularly to see her. When they met, legend has it that they ate and recited poetry together, although they were never sexually involved. Oddly, when Servia died Father Cayetano wasn’t around. The story ends with the incredible notion that her red hair continued to grow after her death.
All this BEFORE you even take one drink!
Exterior shot of the Hotel Sofitel near the Bar entrance
It’s no wonder the hotel attracts pampered guests and speculative and curious visitors from all around the globe.
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Check back soon for more posts about my trip to Colombia.
One of the first questions I asked when I started building an itinerary for my trip to Toronto was, “what food is the city known for?” I suspect you think about details like that too, right? Because really, what is a visit to Philadelphia without tasting their famous Philly Cheesesteak or a trip to New Orleans without slurping from a steaming bowl of any combination of their tummy-pleasing Cajun-Creole gumbo?
So imagine my initial surprise when I learnt Toronto didn’t have a distinctive dish! But when I read that at least half of Toronto’s residents were born outside of Canada, its eclectic food scene made perfect sense. Similar to other ethnically diverse cities like New York and London, a tourist could eat out every night for his/her entire vacation and not repeat cuisines. There’s Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean, Caribbean, Italian, Portuguese, Indian, Greek, Hungarian food establishments and more available – in a range of settings that run the gamut from casual to upscale.
With only 36 hours in the city and good home-cooked meals courtesy of friends in the mix, I didn’t have to dine out much but when I did, I had a great time. Below are my takeaway notes from three totally different food experiences.
Wvrst (pronounced verst)
Location: 609 King Street West
Cuisine: A very simple but winning formula of beer, sausages, fries and dips. The cool factor to this place is that the sausages are far from ordinary. I saw venison, wild boar, elk, rabbit, and kangaroo among other unusual options on the menu.
The meals are served with fried, either done Belgian-style or Dirty (a combination of pepper jalapenos & sautéed onions topped with their special sauces). Accompanying beverages can be selected from their specialty collection of craft beers and ciders served from 24 rotating taps.
Ambiance: Quirky, fun and casual. There are communal tables that allow you to meet and easily mingle with other people and the wait staff are friendly and hip. Be sure to say hi to Chris. He’s the guy who was kind enough to pose for the picture above.
Price range: $7 for vegan items, $8 for traditional sausage varieties and $9 for the specialty game version
360 Restaurant
Location: 301 Front St W, CN Tower
Cuisine: Regional Canadian fare. The menu stirs up your gastric juices with appetizers like house smoked Atlantic Salmon with caper berries and pumpernichel.
It then goes on to tempt you further with main courses such as salmon and scallops served with oyster mushrooms and new potatoes; pork tenderloin served with apple pudding and root vegetables; slow braised veal accompanied by charred corn polenta; prime rib and bread pudding; and rabbit and pancetta.
And oh, my goodness – the desserts! You can choose from the sinfully delicious apple toffee pudding, white chocolate and Beamsville cherries, spiced pumpkin cheesecake, warm Canadian butter tart, a dark chocolate tower and other calorie-rich options.
Ambiance: Fine-dining and classy. It’s definitely a place where you’ll need to make reservations! The restaurant is 351 meters above ground and it rotates 360 degrees every 72 minutes so you get stunning views of the city. The bathroom area doesn’t rotate so if you have to get up to go, note your seating area carefully. The sections are marked.
The restaurant also features a 9,000 bottle (maximum storage capacity) award-winning wine cellar with a selection of more than 550 international and Canadian blends.
My waiter, Eric, said he had been on staff there for 30 years. The best word I could find to describe him is unflappable because inevitably, he’s seen it all.
Price range: A two-course dinner starts at $65; for three-courses it begins at $79. Wine and drinks are additional.
Tunup Islands Caribbean Foods
Location: 1542 Jane St
Cuisine: This corner shop advertises itself as a Caribbean restaurant but the menu items are mostly Jamaican. It’s perfect for members of the Caribbean diaspora who are hankering for a little taste of home. Think jerked chicken, festival, rice and peas, oxtail, red peas soup, ackee and saltfish, ground provisions, and other specialties reminiscent of sunnier climates..
Ambiance: Functional. It’s a fast food joint with counter service and a few closely stacked tables. Ask for the main man Percival and chat with him a bit. He may just hook you up with a little extra on your plate.
Price range: The average meal is $7-10 and at certain times of the day, they have lunch specials.
When I flew into Toronto in early February the temperature on the ground was minus 22 degrees Celsius but with the wind chill factor, it felt closer to minus 40. Let that sink into every fiber of your being for a minute, will you? Allow the thought to settle and then freeze into place.
This was my first step outdoors on Canadian soil
I’m convinced the city realized it was my first time on Canadian soil and decided to throw me – a warm weather island girl – its frostbite version of a welcome party. Hip hip, horaay? No way. But with every vapor-forming breath and crunch on day-old snow step, this chica was ready to make the most of her time in the stark-looking yet blissfully new and unfamiliar terrain.
Tuning into the local news
These are a few suggestions of fun things to see and do in Canada’s most densely populated city.
Visit The Bata Shoe Museum
I love shoes, so needless to say, I was like a kid opening multiple gifts at Christmas as I entered each floor of this more than 13,000-strong collection. Picture me giddy and unsure where to focus first and dying to unwrap each lovely package!
Founder Sonja Bata and her team spent years curating this world-renown exhibition that takes you on an evolutionary journey into the design and production of shoes over many decades.
There is an interactive Design-A-Shoe display, 17th century glass shoes from Holland, silk covered shoes from Korea and Barbie bite-sized footwear collection. I also saw Treccani Milanos, 19th Century Turkish bathhouse sandals, gold-leafed slippers of Asante rulers, plastic thong sandals worn by the Dalai Lama, and much more.
Tiny Barbie and Ken footwearThese Bata sandals, which show much sign of wear were donated by the 14th Dalai Lama in 2010.Hot-blooded movie star Marilyn Munroe wore these red stilettos during a 1967 trip to Montreal and the glamorous Elizabeth Taylor wore these silver evening sandals at an event in the 1980s.
Many of the artifacts are fascinating. If you’re strapped for time, go see Standing Tall: The Curious History of Men in Heels or the Traditional Artic Footwear sections first. They put an entirely different spin on shoes as we know it. The cost for adult entry is CA$14.
Walk through Kensington Market
Located in the heart of downtown Toronto and west of Spadina Street, Kensington Market is a multi-colored and multi-cultural neighborhood that is a mix of residences and shops that sell food, drinks, spices and clothing. Here’s another plus: its brightly painted buildings and graffiti-outfitted walls will form picture-perfect backdrops for your Instagram and Facebook feeds!
An alley in Kensington Market with walls that looked like an outdoor art galleryNuts and spices of every type and variety
If it’s cold when you’re there and the weather gets too chilly, don’t despair. Super cozy cafes are likely to beckon with steaming cups of hot chocolate and energy-rebooting expressos or soothing lattes. After a warm-up cuppa something, tiny alleyways leading to throwback 19th century cottages that sit on close lots will entice you to explore more. There is no entry fee.
Time travel at Casa Loma
From the minute you step across Casa Loma’s threshold you are ushered into a time of no-expense spared splendor. Buildings of this size and grandeur were unequivocally the domain of the rich and indulgent. Actually, make that the super-rich and unapologetically indulgent – underlined and bolded, full stop.
It is the former home of Sir Henry Pellatt, a little known stock market investor who just happened to build a house the size of a castle then walk away from it when he ran into money problems 10 years later. It has 98 rooms and reportedly took 300 men and three years to build.
The exterior view of the “castle”.
The ‘castle’ is now a much-visited museum and landmark but on occasion, it also is the place to be for private events. To get invited, chances are you must be loaded. The guard at the gate told me that multi-millionaire Michael Jordan had rented the entire venue for his birthday party the night before for the cool fee of one million dollars. C’mon now, why did you raise that eyebrow? How else would basketball royalty throw a memorable shindig over Canada’s NBA All Star weekend? Of course, his Royal Airness had to have it in a castle!
The details on this bed frame were just mind-boggling.
Regular visitors like you and me can enjoy far-reaching views of the city from the towers, gaze unabashedly at the ornate and intricately built period furnishings or see a small antique car collection. Music lovers will appreciate the magnificence of the piping system for a 3/15 model Wurlitzer Theater organ that was added after the owner died and young kids can enjoy a bite or two in the on-site restaurant.
One of the three classic cars in the carriage house
Everyone who has the luxury of life without knee pain, will be tempted to explore the secret passageways. Phew. Those stairs are not just narrow; they’re STEEP. The stables and carriage house are connected to the main building by an 800-ft. tunnel. Entry admission is $24 per adult.
Take the required pilgrimage to the CN Tower
Imagine racing to the top of the world (well honestly, a tower) at 15 miles per hour! Sounds thrilling, doesn’t it? Well, the city scenes that rush by serve as the precursor to the full-spectrum of your CN Tour experience – if you decide to brave joining all the winding queues. There is an Outdoor Sky Terrace where the natural breeze whips through your hair minus staged Beyoncé-style fans; a SkyPod observation platform; an EdgeFloor and an EdgeWalk.
The distinctive CN Tower is sure hard to miss!
There’s also my personal favorite, the Glass Floor. Entry to this level is free if you dine at the 360 Restaurant. Made of glass that was built to withstand the weight of 35 moose, you can stand on it and see the street below you, a toe-curling 342m (1,122’) straight down.
You wouldn’t believe how many people were scared to step on the glass and look down.
Yes, you may get a little queasy or your mind might trick you into thinking it will crack beneath you. But it won’t. Personally, I think it is a whole lot safer than taking the world’s highest full circle hands-free walk on a 5 ft (1.5 m) wide ledge encircling the top of the Tower’s main pod. Now, that is outside at 116 storeys above the ground! (Never mind my weary heart, if you opt to try that, trained guides are with you all the way).
Ride a streetcar
Whether you think streetcars are ‘a remarkably efficient way of moving people’ or ‘as obsolete as the horse and buggy’, you cannot visit Toronto and NOT ride on this unique type of transportation. Operated on an intricate layer of overhead cables, the streetcars are an inexpensive way to see the city and the best part is, you can cover what you want to see at your own pace.
Canadian streetcar cables.
There are 11 routes to choose from but the 506 Carlton Street Car is perhaps the most sight-seeing friendly. It travels from the eastern side of High Park and goes through Little Italy, past the University of Toronto, Cabbagetown and into Little India. If you’re on a walking tour, be careful! The streetcars share lanes with regular vehicles so both motorists and pedestrians must remain alert at all times.
Toronto Street Car (Image sourced from internet)
What are some of the things you did when you visited or hope to do when you go? Soon, I’ll add a post about my three favorite food spots.
